Bubble or Hub

When I first arrived at Trinity, one of the first features of the school I noticed was its location.  Trinity sits at the convergence of three of Dublin’s busiest thoroughfares.  The first is Dame Street, where greasy chip shops frame stern entrances to Dublin City Hall and Dublin Castle, and pubs come classy (lampshades, decorative jazz pianos, maroon upholstery—the works).  The second is Grafton Street, cobblestone jungle where dreams are made (oh), where busking musicians vie for volume as they try to pull a Glen Hansard and make it big one tourist at a time.  Trinity’s third artery is O’Connell Street, passageway to the north side, its buildings shrinking from megaplexes to miniscule Malaysian buffets as you walk farther along.  Standing at Trinity’s wrought-iron front gates as a new student, I tried to take in all of this, and couldn’t wait to step into the confusion.

Yet, the more time I spent at Trinity, the more the campus became a small world.  On numerous occasions, my classmates mentioned feeling insulated as the year progressed and we burrowed deeper into our schoolwork. Despite its centrality to the city, there were moments when Trinity felt as remote as a small liberal arts school in the Berkshires.  I quickly realized that my mere location would not bring Dublin to me.  How I chose to live the city would determine how I experienced the campus: as a hub or as a bubble.

One way I ventured beyond Trinity’s walls was by beginning an internship in Maynooth, in County Kildare. Early last year, I began working for Trócaire, an Irish nonprofit that leads numerous environmental and agricultural livelihoods projects in Latin America, Africa, and Asia. Specifically, I decided to assist Trócaire’s advocacy for tax transparency in oil, gas, and mining industries.  While I entered the project based on my interest in water issues surrounding mines and pipelines, I quickly became fascinated by the politics of financial transparency and tax issues.

Trocaire’s transparency advocacy addresses a complicated challenge: the unrealized potential of rich natural resources—magnets for multinational investment—to benefit domestic communities.  According to Action Aid, illegal capital flows, endemic in mining and oil projects, leak as much as seven times the value of inward official aid from developing countries every year. In order to stem this flow, Trócaire is an active lobbyist in Brussels for EU Accounting and Transparency Directives, new legislation that requires multinationals to publically disclose their payments to state actors. Contributing to Trócaire’s efforts to support revenue monitoring has been a rewarding and inspiring way to link my academic learning to Irish and EU policymaking.

In addition to my internship, my peers have helped me experience the broader social context of my year here. My Mitchell family, classmates, and I have traveled to Galway, Cork, Belfast, Derry/Londonderry, London, and Paris together, with potential trips to Spain, Portugal, and Morocco in the near future.  Talking and traveling with these lifelong friends refreshes my perspective on my academic year, and helps me appreciate coursework as pleasurable instead of stressful.

Bike ride along Dublin Bay with Ben and Mona

After 11 months in Ireland, I will leave Dublin with a renewed sense of place.  Certainly, I’ve relished the culture and conveniences accessible at the heart of Dublin.  Ultimately, however, it has been my outreach experiences and relationships that have enlivened my surroundings.  After all, actions and not coordinates will determine my place in my society, country, and world.

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Looking Back

I’ve written most of my posts about the people who turn ordinary days into extraordinary ones. As a group of friends we have given ourselves the title of “Elephants” – we are loud, clumsy, and have big personalities. At times there are only 3 or so in the library, at other times 14 in the pub. This group of friends – from extremely diverse backgrounds – will forever mark my time in Ireland and Northern Ireland.

We’ve spent the last few weeks attempting to say good bye, knowing that it will be difficult, although certainly possible, to connect in the future. Knowing that my time is coming to a close, I’ve tried to remember my first impressions of Derry/Londonderry, the class, and INCORE (where my academic program is housed).

The first days in INCORE were terrifying, we were horribly nervous after being asked, “So, what’s your research topic?” I knew, albeit loosely, that I wanted to write on political graffiti and its relationship to space and conflict. I didn’t know that after ten months of thinking about this topic, I’d finally be able to begin to put words to paper about what I had the opportunity to see happen in Bahrain. I certainly didn’t know that I’d have the opportunity to mesh my classroom experiences with the community I was living in in such a practical way.

Derry/Londonderry initially felt extremely isolated from the rest of the island. As I’ve lived here, and had the occasion to work with different communities, I’ve learned more about its complexities and now it seems as if there are days when the entire world exists in a few city blocks. Today I went to the play “Re-energize,” about a punk rock band, based outside the city, trying to reform. Laughing at the jokes, finally, came naturally.

The Elephants became instant friends, the way you hope when you move some place new. We’ve celebrated birthdays, assignments, and holidays together, always making it as big a deal, if not bigger, as it should be. We’ve seen each other through some hilarious, and often awkward, situations. We’ve made tea, ate too much food and indulged in too many nights out. Elephants, thanks for helping me find my way through.

I feel like I’ve learned a lot over the year, inside and outside the classroom. There have been challenges, especially when navigating the nuances of a divided city, but all have helped me learn more about life from the place I’m in. Mostly, as I leave the island after a few weeks, I’ll know that I’ll always have a place to come back to, and a couch to sleep on.

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A Spiritual Feast for the Senses, or How a Monk Catches a Submarine on a Bicycle

Glenstal Abbey

If an old monk ever offers to take you on a walk through an enchanted forest, always say yes.

In April, we had the chance to visit Glenstal Abbey, a Benadictine monastery outside of Limerick. More than one former Mitchell scholar had told me that this was one of their favorite experiences from their year, and Trina had said that the Abbot Patrick Hederman is a true spiritual guru. As someone who finds much significance in spirituality and religious traditions, I was intrigued.

As our coach approached the Abbey, I saw what they had been talking about. Glenstal is set on a seventeenth century Italian-style wildlife sanctuary. Above the main stone archway is the bronze motto of the Abbey: “PAX,” meaning “peace.” According to their website, “A monastery is a place where peace reigns…a place apart, where all may find peace, quiet, recollection, and ultimately God Himself.” My kind of place.

Founded in 1927, the monastery now has a boy’s boarding school, a farm, a guest house, and hosts regular seminars. The 50 monks assemble in the church five times per day for prayer and chanting. Benedictine monks have been following this daily rhythm more or less since the sixth century.

We were greeted by Brother Anthony – with his walking stick but without his shoes. He has dedicated his life to studying horticulture and caring for the Abbey grounds. He led us on a forest hike and got us to experience the flora and fauna by encouraging us to touch the tree bark and smell the pinecones. He told us whimsical stories of past monks, such as Winsoc Mertens – the first soldier ever to capture a submarine on a bicycle.

Legend goes that before Winsoc was a monk at Glenstal, he was a part of the Army Corps of Cyclists. During the first World War, he was tasked to patrol the sea shore on his bicycle. One day, he spotted a submarine periscope in the water and cycled to alert the authorities. They were able to intercept the submarine off the coast, and Winsoc and his bike saved the day!

After our nature walk, we were introduced to Abbot Patrick Hederman and shared tea and the most beautiful cakes, handmade by the monks. Abbot Hederman and the other monks again surprised me with their pop culture savvy mixed with profound wisdom. They converse as if they have all the time in the world and as if everyone’s contributions are vital insights. If only we all actively listened like this.

We were then led into the vaulted cathedral, which I was (again) surprised to see is decorated in a style that Hederman described as “pop art meets 16th century gothic.” The garish primary colors contrast the serenity elsewhere in the Abbey, but somehow it works. We were treated to a concerto played on an ancient organ, and were enveloped by the most haunting Celtic spirituals, including a funeral dirge beyond words.

Glenstal Abbey

We were treated to an organ concert in the pop art-colored chapel at Glenstal Abbey.

The Abbot then took us into the crypt of Orthodox icons from around the world, and told us the miraculous and curious stories of how each icon came to rest there. We then attended vespers in Latin and I think I had shivers the whole time.  I only snapped out of this reverie when it was time to say goodbye.

I can barely put into words what a profoundly spiritual experience it was for me. At some point during the day, every single sense was engaged in with God. Seeing the beauty of nature. Smelling the pinecones and incense. Feeling the moss beneath my feet and the cool stillness of the crypt. Tasting the tea and cakes made with care. Hearing the music and the prayers that were truly otherworldly.

When we filed back onto the bus, I thought to myself, “what just happened?” Indeed, these sensory memories will stay with me, and Glenstal Abbey will go down as one of my favorite experiences on this island as well.

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On the hunt for Irish relations

“Do you have relations from Ireland?” is, without fail, one of the first questions that Irish people will ask when they find out you are American. It is a fair question, given the extensive Irish Diaspora and the country’s ‘special relationship’ with the United States. It is an even better question since I live in Cork, from where, it seems, half of America’s great great grannys and grandpas seemed to have been born or immigrated. However, my answer to the Irish relations question over the course of my Mitchell year has always been a confident (if somewhat apologetic), “no, no Irish relations or roots to speak of.” My family is not very genealogically inclined, but I was always told that we were of pure Scottish origins – descendents of the land of shortbread, smoky whisky, kilts, and (the indisputably best James Bond) Sean Connery.

Much to my surprise then, when I called home a few months ago, my Dad said “You know, I think your grandma mentioned something about having ancestors from Ireland.” He and my stepmom dug up the scrap piece of paper where my grandmother had written various family facts, and sure enough, it noted that my great great grandfather was born in Cork in 1845. ‘Thanks Dad, I thought, you couldn’t have thought of this 10 months ago when I moved to Ireland, and before I started lying to half the population of the country about my heritage.’

While the legitimacy of that scrap of paper is questionable, I figured a bit of family tree investigation would be a fun project at the least. I mentioned it to my good friend Jo here in Cork, and it turns out there is little else Irish folks love more than finding an American’s ancestral connection to the home country. Jo (and her entire family) have taken on the mission with vigor.

Last week, we paid a visit to Nell in Carrigtwohill, a small town three train stops down the line from Cork, where Jo grew up. Nell minded Jo and her siblings growing up, and her husband Carl conveniently has a hobby/business tracking down people’s (mostly Americans’) Irish ancestors. Jo and I showed up at the doorstep with a “thank-you-for-helping-me-discover-my-identity” lemon tart (always good to bring citrus-themed baked goods to Irish tea), and we spent the next few hours having a lovely chat. Like many good conversations in Ireland, the conversation weaved from how I have been enjoying my experience at UCC, to the sad news that the family cat had to be put down last month because of a hemoraging tumor, to the new ducklings that Jo’s father brought home from the wildlife park, to the couple’s recent vacation to Poland (shaky amateur home videos included, of course). The visit eventually wrapped up, I told Carl I would email him the name and dates I had for my family, and off we went (very little business happens in Ireland on a first visit).

And so the hunt has begun.

Whether something comes of it or not, I don’t really mind. That afternoon’s cuppa and chat were enough to call the project a success in my mind. More than that, it was a reminder of the warmth and hospitality that I have experienced here in Ireland – whether it is an invitation to Easter dinner with Granny, a cooked breakfast in bed after a late night out, or an offer to use the shower when my hot water goes out (again), my friends here in Ireland never cease to amaze me with their generosity. As the Mitchell year finishes up in the next couple of months, I find comfort in the fact that this kindness and friendship will be a part of my life forever. No matter the outcome of my investigation into my family heritage, I know that Ireland will always be a home.

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Lessons from Ireland

Enjoy
Explore
Experience

Eight months ago, I sat in a corner of terminal A6 in the Philadelphia International airport waiting for my red eye flight to Dublin. I began to list goals for my year in Ireland. I was not exactly sure what to expect. In addition to the traditional academic and social justice pursuits, this list was a bit  broader (on purpose) and personal. Somewhere in the last four years, in between preparing taxes, public health initiatives, and genetic research, I did not have the opportunity to intentionally focus on these goals. As my year in Ireland is coming to an end, I wanted to take the time to think about these initial goals and what lessons they have turned into.

1. Talking about our (often insignificant) problems is one our greatest addictions. It is best to break the habit and talk about our joys. This is probably the greatest lesson I have gained. Work is for work while relaxing is for being home and enjoying both yourself and the company of others. It is okay to turn our minds off to let it recover. When I ask my Irish housemate how work went, he does not complain or tell me all of the annoying things that happened throughout his day. Rather, he focuses on things that he is looking forward to (maybe going to the cinema or grabbing a pint) now that the work day has ended. Stressing and complaining about our problems only makes the unhappy parts of the day seem longer. After much reflection on my last few years, I’ve realized how much work dictated every minute of every day. A healthier approach (that I’m still working on) is to work hard and teach our bodies and minds to relax and enjoy the pleasures that every day brings by focusing and looking forward to the good.

2. Feel insignificant as often as possible. I do not mean small insignificant, rather small in comparison to the universe. Travel. Explore people and cultures. Grasp how big our world is. Visit the ocean as much as possible. Lay on the Cliffs of Moher looking over the Atlantic Ocean and take a deep breath in (If that does not make you feel insignificant, I’m not sure what would). Drive around the Dingle Peninsula and soak in the beauty of it all. Stop and look at every single rainbow you come across (especially double rainbows). Seek sunrises and sunsets. Travel some more. When flying – focus on how far up in the sky over the clouds you are. Being in the midst of clouds gives the same feeling as when looking out into the never-ending ocean, or a never ending mountain range. Ireland’s beauty has rekindled my sense of adventure that I hope to never lose again.

3. Do not miss an opportunity to share experiences. Never, and i mean never, say no to a cup of tea (feel free to say no to the milk). Even if you do not want any more caffeine or if you have a deadline coming up in a few hours. Explore new foods with friends.Similarly, always be willing to have a pint (or a Jameson if a pint of Guinness is just too big, or you can try adding a shot of blackcurrent to the Guinness to make it yummy) or go to a random gig. Enjoy the atmosphere of live music.  Some of my greatest moments in Ireland have been at the most inconvenient times (oh paper due at midnight? A 5:30 am flight the next day?) This year has been as much about my academic work (understanding inequalities in our global community) as it has been about experiencing community and friendships on this island.  Having incredible experiences with my Irish friends, lovely international classmates, and Mitchell loves has been the cherry on the top of an unforgettable year.
I know that because of these lessons in how to enjoy, explore, and experience , I’ll always have a piece of Irish wisdom with me .
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Further Afield in Ireland

Not nearly enough of April was spent on schoolwork. This is, perhaps, completely fine. I’m not sure if Mitchell Scholars are supposed to say things like that, but it’s the truth. For the past month, two of my best friends, Mark and Lizzie, made separate journeys to come see me here in Galway. Our goals were to see the somewhat less seen (if no less scenic) parts of Ireland. Everyone’s heard of the Cliffs of Moher and the Giant’s Causeway. Dublin and Galway are handsomely furnished with Celtic Tiger-era tourism offices and easily navigated with the help of a Lonely Planet or Fodor’s. We asked, “What about Clare Island?” How about Rann na Feirste and Gaoth Dobhair? Skibbereen? Portmagee? These are places with sparse guide book entries and even sparser access to public transportation. They are the places to meet the locals and see another side of Ireland.

In Anagaire, the local garda and the local ne’er-do-well sit together at the bar, debating how long it takes to get to the nearest jail. At Skibbereen’s Famine History/Marine Biology Center (an obvious pairing?), you have the choice of two informational videos: one ‘Suffering,’ and the other, ‘Death.’ On Clare Island, you can meet the whole island in the pub, get chased by a herd of sheep, and even find someone to give you a ride back to Westport the next day. Belfast might be home to the only Chinese-Mexican fusion fast-food (Wok-a-Molé, I’ll love you forever) restaurant in this time zone. It turns out, there’s an almost forgotten, 2000 year old Celtic ring fort in the middle of the Burren in County Clare, and the cobbler’s shop in Dingle actually becomes a pub after hours. The point is, Ireland is weird and it’s time we appreciated it as such.

My friends were good sports to indulge me during April. Mark and I did our meager best to keep a turf fire lit for a few cold days in a cottage in Donegal (along with Mitchells Kelly and Cath!). Lizzie was kind enough to tolerate (and even encourage) tableau vivant-style reenactments, throughout Galway City, of 2011’s major motion picture, The Guard. Everyone got either sunburned or soaked on Inis Mór, and I had a close call with a mud pit while searching for St. Brendan’s well on Valentia Island. Mark and I accidentally set off the security alarms at Dunguaire Castle, and Lizzie found out that bog-covered mountains are quite slippery after a fresh rain.

Travelling to the somewhat less-travelled-to places with dear friends is an opportunity to reflect on the past year, on the growth and change that have taken place since graduating last spring. It also sets the scene for having a bit of a think about the future.  As this year in Ireland starts to wind down, I’m left with more questions than I began with.  I imagine that’s the way these things are supposed to work, and I hope to always be asking myself questions, to be thinking critically about the work I’m engaged in, and to be pursuing meaningful long-term goals. But that is the future. Right now, there are few more months to revel in the wacky and wild off-the-map places that make Ireland such a special and memorable experience.

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In The Interim

On May 9th, Belfast Exposed, a gallery in Belfast’s Cathedral Quarter, had an opening for its two new exhibitions: Northern Ireland: 30 Years of Photography and Interim, an exhibition of the mid-program work from University of Ulster Belfast’s MFA Photography students. I count myself lucky to learn and be exhibited alongside the fine group of individuals in this latter show, and truly honored to put up work in the same gallery as those included in the former.

The Belfast Exposed announcement of our show, Interim:

http://www.belfastexposed.org/news/story.php?story=339

Interim was the result of the work of 16 MFA students over the past academic year. We have grown together and learned from one another as well as from our tutors. I feel blessed to have been given the opportunity to study in Belfast and with this program. I included two pieces in this exhibition.  The first, only visible on postcards and the Interim poster, is a film still from a video I shot of cherry blossoms at night. The work is inspired by my time in Japan and seeks to evoke feelings of memory through its subject matter, imagery, and the tension between moving and still image.

This is the poster from the show displaying a film still from this work:

The second, main piece I included in this show is a still video shot of a clock (without a second hand) played on a loop. The video quality makes it difficult at first to determine whether the work is a photograph or video.

While my travels unfortunately made it impossible to attend the opening of this exhibition, I have come to see that Interim is indeed an appropriate title not only for this exhibition but also for my involvement in the course and in Belfast. This is due to the fact that I have decided to stay on with the course through the autumn semester, despite the conclusion of my Mitchell year. I am greatly looking forward to my continued participation in the course and my additional time in Belfast.

So rather than looking back and reflecting on my Mitchell year, I must admit that for me this is really only the interim, both in terms of my time here and the extent to which this experience will shape my artistic career and my personal life. The long reaching effects of this scholarship and my months on this island are still only beginning to be felt and I feel as though I have just settled into my life here and the true growth is on the horizon.

I would like to thank everyone who supports the Mitchell Scholarship and who made this year possible for myself and my fellow Mitchell classmates. I am so happy and blessed to be where I am and to have had this opportunity, and I only hope that I am able to repay this blessing through a future devoted passionately to this work and to a continued love of Belfast.

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The Global Reach of Irish Universities

What can you learn about the island of Ireland 3,000 miles away ? Quite a lot, as I found out when I travelled with 4 Irish postgraduate students to the HEC Montreal Business School’s International Graduate Competition.

Montreal, Canada may not be the first place one thinks to look at the US-Ireland Trans-Atlantic relationship. For me, competing alongside four Irish peers representing an Irish university at a Canadian Competition helped me better appreciate the realities of the US-Ireland connection. I got to hear how my Irish peers saw North America, see how they felt about the on-going emigration debates, and learn about their relationship to the Irish diaspora.  Montreal itself has a proud Irish heritage, even with a three-leaf clover on its city flag. We had the opportunity to meet with the Honorary Consul General of Ireland to Montreal, Dr. Michael Kenneally of Concordia University. We met with the Irish-Canadian Chamber of Commerce, Montreal and the St. Patrick’s Society of Montreal. I got to be part of the conversation. Sitting across the table at this event in Montreal, we had folks from Dublin, Cork, Kerry, Donegal, Northern Ireland,  France, Canada, and the US each having some Craic. More than just a social experience, a trip to Montreal offered a chance to work collaboratively with my Irish university peers and cultivate relationships that I hope will last a lifetime.

The International Graduate Competition at HEC Business School Montreal is a global business competition for postgraduate students. The University College Cork (UCC) was one of only 8 universities in the world selected to compete in this prestigious competition. Our team was awarded 1st place overall and had the best written report. One of our teammates, was awarded an internship with a Canadian consultancy based on his contributions to the Competition.

(C) JPhotographie

Photo of the UCC Team at HEC IGC 2013, (C) JPhotographie

The heart of the Competition, held over the week of April 27 thru May 3, was a 48-hour case analysis. Teams were tasked with delivering a 15-minute presentation, a 30-minute presentation, and a written report for our client. The case was designed with the express intention of being difficult, according to the HEC’s main case writer for the Competition, Professor Mai Thai. Our client was a unique open-source network of producers and users of high-quality, innovative sensors.

The HEC Montreal created opportunities for collaboration and competition. This so-called ‘co-opertition’ split students along business functional groups, including Human Resources, Marketing, Entrepreneurship, and Finance. In analysing the real-world case, students worked with their functional colleagues from other universities to better understand their portion of the scenario. HEC Montreal provided access to professors in the relevant specialities as well as representatives from the organization under review.

We needed to work together as functional teams as well as within our own university. The case designers intentionally wrote the case to necessitate intra-team collaboration within this competitive environment. Case organizers gave business model information that one student participant needed to another student, whether the Marketing budget was hidden within the Entrepreneurship packet or Brand surveys was buried in the Finance materials.

As a Mitchell Scholar, the opportunity to learn and grow with and from my Irish university peers is something I will treasure. My week in Montreal taught me a great deal about global reach of Irish university education as well as the realities of the Irish diaspora.

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A Mitchell Year

It is eight months since I first arrived in Ireland, and each evening, I am reminded of my first few days here. The reminder comes by way of sunlight that lingers well into the night.

It was one of the first things I noticed when I arrived last August. Even on an overcast or rainy day, even at the tail end of summer, the sun would make its presence felt late into the night.

The flipside of this latitudinal phenomenon were the fleetingly short days of winter. From December through February, the sun never seemed to fully rise. And by 4:30 in the afternoon, I would leave lectures to find all but the last traces of light extinguished from the sky.

As with any cycle, re-encountering the familiar solicits a moment for reflection. In this case, I am realizing how much my year in Ireland has been marked by two disparate themes: one of business and economics and the other of Ireland’s natural beauty.

The first of these themes absorbed my weekdays, as I went to class and did work for my MBA program. The second theme was evidenced during weekend sailing, biking, and hiking trips.

The first theme was an exploration of what we, as humans, have created and built – institutions that reach across the globe, employing millions, transforming resources, and changing patterns of everyday life. The second is an exploration of what we haven’t yet touched – miles of Irish landscape that evidence years of carving by wind and water and seem untouched by human intervention.

Ireland is an amazing place to explore the intersection of these two realms. One can travel from Dublin’s ‘silicon dock’ – the name of a commercial district of Dublin, home to the European headquarters of many multinational tech companies – to the Wicklow Mountains well inside an hour.

As humanity grows in size and affluence, we face no greater challenge than that of managing how our expanding footprint affects our planet. For me, this year has been an excellent opportunity to both explore the management of that footprint and, occasionally, attempt to escape it all together.

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Liquidation & Renewal

On February 6, just before midnight, a plane carrying Ireland’s president landed at Dublin airport. It was a hastily arranged voyage, interrupting a state visit to Italy so that President Higgins could sign a piece of legislation into law. The particular bill in question had been in the works for months. However, until just hours before his plane touched down, its existence had not been reported outside the government.

Word of the bill had leaked to the press in the late afternoon. Members of parliament received their copies just before 11pm that night. They were given one hour to read the bill before debate commenced. It was a blur of events – even for those involved. At two in the morning, just before the final vote began, Ireland’s finance minister told members of parliament, “Don’t concentrate so much on the detail, look at the purpose.”

At 3am on February 7th, the Dáil (Ireland’s parliament), passed the Irish Bank Resolution Corporation Act. At 7:25am the next morning, President Higgins signed it into law. Although he was now free to return to Italy, the law was just one part of the day’s flurry of activity. For the Prime Minister and the Minister of Finance, the next several hours would see a series of swift negotiations with the European Central Bank who had closely watched the vote early that morning.

The end result of all this was the liquidation of a rather peculiar institution, a new set of agreements with the European Central Bank (ECB), and, to hear it from Ireland’s political leadership, a new lease on life for the country’s economy.

The peculiar institution that was liquidated was the Irish Bank Resolution Corporation (IBRC). The IBRC is the vestige of Anglo-Irish Bank, a bank that had helped push Ireland into financial crisis and towards a 65 Billion Euro bailout from Europe in order to guarantee the solvency of Anglo and other banks. The late-night parliamentary maneuvering had prevented IBRC’s creditors from trying to block the liquidation before it occurred.

After liquidating the bank, the ECB agreed to swap Ireland’s current commitments to its defunct banks, which required the country to shell out roughly 3 Billion Euros per annum (a payment which was set to come due on March 31st) with a set of long-term bonds that would not mature until thirty years later. (OK, it’s a bit more complicated than that, but this simple story will suffice for now).

Ultimately, the maneuver is a bet on two things: (1) that reduced austerity will lead to more economic growth and (2) that inflation will occur and that the Euros that Ireland will repay in thirty years will be worth less than Euros that would have had to be paid now. For now, Ireland has dodged its upcoming payments and, it appears, refinanced its obligations on terms that will likely prove to be much more favorable.

As a business school student in Europe, watching the continent negotiate its currency union has been one of the most fascinating storylines to this year. As Cyprus enters its own bailout saga, Spain and Italy teeter on the brink, and Greece tries to live up to its commitments, Ireland’s apparent navigation towards a smooth landing from its fiscal crisis appears a bright spot.

The merits of the move are being hotly debated, and the true benefits will only be revealed in time, but I can sense those around me breathing a bit easier.

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A Taste of the North

Over the last few months, I felt I had come to understand Northern Ireland after having read a few books about the Troubles and often spoken to Irish friends about the conflict. Yet nothing could have prepared me for my first experience in Belfast and Derry/Londonderry in February, over the course of a retreat with fellow Mitchell scholars. While it is immensely difficult to do justice to the complexities in the North of Ireland in a short post, I will do my best to share some of my own rudimentary impressions of the current situation.

Belfast definitely still feels like the industrial city that it grew into in the 19th century. The mostly gray and drab architecture that plagues this almost Dickensian town springs to life thanks to the colorful, diverse, and often controversial murals that have popped up on the walls of shops and homes across the city. Even though the conflict ended thanks to the peace process of the late 1990’s and the peace-building efforts of local communities, the tensions and divisions that tore this community apart remain palpable: many storefronts displayed their allegiances, either putting up a “God Save the Queen” banner, or flying a Republic of Ireland flag and conspicuously placing Irish phrases across windows. One of the most interesting people we met with actually happened to be our bus driver, an interesting man who to my astonishment shared with us that he was a “dissident” and thus opposed the Good Friday Agreement. Instinctively, I wanted to dismiss the views of a man opposed to the current peace – but I could not help but feel that it is hard to blame this man for not wanting to forgive, given that he has probably witnessed and experienced injustices I couldn’t even fathom.

Derry/Londonderry presented a different facet of Northern Ireland. The historic city walls that continue to surround the town center give it a medieval vibe that Belfast lacks, but here too the communities of Protestants and Catholics remain almost more divided than in Belfast. Nevertheless, at the Derry Playhouse we had the fortune of meeting with women who were affected by the Troubles, and have dedicated themselves to encouraging peace and forgiveness through the arts. One woman shared the story of how her husband was brutally murdered by the IRA, while another spoke of her own challenging experience as a bombmaker in the IRA. I cannot imagine the strength of character and spirit that it must have taken for these women to first sit next to one another, let alone work together. Hearing these stories gave us a window into the excruciating pain that so many must have suffered during the Troubles, and one cannot come out of such an experience without optimism and hope that forgiveness will vanquish any residual animosity.

I still have a tremendous amount to learn about this fascinating part of the island, and could not be more excited to return in May to conduct thesis research and gain a deeper sense of what it takes to hold a post-conflict society together.

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Cross Border Observations

My Human Rights Law program is split between Queen’s University in Belfast and the National University of Ireland in Galway. This means that my Mitchell year has been divided North and South, with two different cities, cohorts, currencies, and cultures. After four months in Belfast and almost two now in Galway I can say confidently that yes, there really is a difference.

The experiences are different and the opportunities, therefore, are also radically different. In Belfast I had two internships and was surrounded constantly by talk which provided insight into conflict resolution and human rights in post-conflict society. Most people I met were somehow involved in an organization or political work, and everyone overflowed with opinions. I miss the grit and humor in Belfast, and the handling of the sometimes-grim reality. And the flip side also: the vibrancy of the culture and music and festivals that are a positive response to painful recent histories.

But there are also things I don’t miss about Belfast.

Some of this has to do entirely with personal style and my individual quirks. Briefly, I don’t miss classrooms of silent students, I don’t miss feeling out of place in my flat shoes and makeup-free face just to go to a lecture, and I don’t miss the sense that nearly everyone around me came from Belfast and had no aspirations to ever leave. Queen’s is a clannish place, at least in the Law school, and there is something very isolating in the sense that most people hope to never leave.

My experience in Galway is a lot like coming home. This is an international city, balancing the status of a small place on the Western end of Ireland with the diversity of student body and local population. The students around me offer opinions in classes and mostly seem to aspire to NGO work, UN involvement, and a variety of work overseas and here in Ireland. There is an energy to campus which is deeply satisfying, and a breadth of interests in the classroom that I find inspiring.

Galway is not gritty. It’s artsy. Hippie, basically. It’s an easy place for me to live; I fit here.

Again, I don’t want to harp on what didn’t fit for me in Belfast. I made connections there that I maintain now: individuals and organizations working in conflict resolution, ex-prisoner education, and local social issues. I haven’t yet found any connections to match these in Galway. I also made deep friendships in Belfast, although mostly not at Queen’s and generally in what you might term the counter-culture of Belfast.

I came here to be a student, and there are some stark differences between Queens and Galway that I recognize had limited me at Queen’s.   Classes at NUIG are far more discussion based and in-depth, with an assumed knowledge and discernment by students that has me scrambling for my text books. There is a constant barrage of opportunities through the Human Rights Centre: seminars, conferences, speaking events, movie nights, etc. At Queen’s, these opportunities were fewer, and the student organization generally focused on pub crawls, rather than human rights. I also find NUIG professors to be much more engaged with the students, eager to foster interests and with high expectations of individual work. It makes for more studying, but also more excitement and opportunity.

So here I am in Galway, land of pubs and seafront promenades. I’m surrounded not by political graffiti and sectarian flags, but by street art and traditional music. There’s a loss in leaving my Belfast communities and the work I was part of there. But there’s studying to be done and a full calendar of events upcoming. I’m happy to be here.

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