June 2010 Reflection

As I have written before on these pages, I’m convinced that most of the people who read scholar reflections are prospective applicants. If you’ve made your way through my previous reflections and those of other Mitchells to chance upon this little entry, you probably don’t need to be convinced to apply. But let’s suppose, for some reason, you’re still on the fence about whether to fill out an application. Allow me to try and convince you.

First, applying for the Mitchell is a worthwhile experience even if you don’t end up with a scholarship. When my undergraduate advisor used to stress that applying for this opportunity was not merely a means to an end but an end unto itself, I would roll my eyes. Of course – it sounds like the sort of thing you tell yourself to prepare for a suboptimal outcome. But he was right. For me at least, thinking long and hard about whether I wanted to live abroad, about a desired course of graduate study, and about where the Mitchell would fit into a larger vision of my life triggered the kind of self-examination I rarely indulge in. It’s so easy to pass from short-term goal to short-term goal or to glide onto a conventional career track without pausing to take a more thorough account of where you’re at and what you want. If done right, the process of applying for the Mitchell can provide that kind of reflection. In fact, I’d venture to guess the best applications are the product of just that sort of honest, thorough rumination. Even if an application is not ultimately “successful,” an applicant that takes advantage of the opportunity will learn something about herself that’s worth knowing.

It has been a little over two months since I left Ireland. Since leaving, I like to think I’ve gained some dim sense of perspective on what the experience meant to me. I can honestly say that I wouldn’t trade the year I had for any of the other opportunities before me when I left the country. I can only speak with some authority about the scholars in my class, but I’m confident in saying that they all feel the same way – there are no regrets. This is no small feat. It is the nature of the program to select people with exciting options in front of them; providing an experience engaging, enriching and enjoyable enough to convince a bunch of ambitious young people that it was the best way to spend a year is challenging.

How, exactly, does the program inspire this kind of appreciation? Where to begin? There is the staff of the Alliance – past and present – who take a tireless interest in scholar’s lives as mentors and friends. There are the opportunities for travel throughout Ireland and the continent of Europe, the dizzying experience of planting roots outside the United States, and the rigor and intellectual ferment of Ireland’s graduate programs. And, of course, there is Ireland itself, which while no doubt pleasant in tourism’s sense of the word (the guidebook sites, the landscapes, the welcoming natives), reserves its richest treasures for those who invest real time in it.

But most important of all are the scholars themselves – I have never met a more inspiring group of people.

If all of that doesn’t sound appealing to you, you need to get your head checked. So apply already.

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June 2010 Reflection

I found him sitting down, occupying the seat I had once occupied: On a couch, off to the side of the room. But this time it was different: there were two of us on the couch, watching the party.

As I sat there I began to realize this was not his usual perch. It opened like this: “How many kids do you have?” “Seven that I know of.” I’d heard that line before in Ireland, but not usually from an 80 year old. Definitely not from the father of a friend. “He’s such a big boy now” he said, looking wonderingly across the room at Bill. He meant strapping: over six foot and solid. Bill was awesome in my opinion—just the day before he’d taken me to his lab to look at all the one-celled organisms he was analyzing that showed a record of climate in Galway Bay since the last Ice Age. His father, Gordon, in my assessment, was just as awesome. At 78 something he had re-enrolled in geology classes and was now completing his last year of the diploma and simply loved the stuff. (Bill said he was not sure what his dad would do with himself when the course finished: maybe archeology.) Gordon still biked across full counties in Ireland. My thighs got sore when I tried to bike across a portion. He was currently planning a cycling trip across France with a friend from his Geology classes. But he was not musing on these things. “When I first held him he was only this big” he said looking from Bill to his forearm. Bill, dressed and whizzing about the room, caught the drift of the conversation and blew a kiss across the room to his father.

The conversation turned to age. “There are three secrets to aging well: eat well, exercise, and spend your life with people you love.” I smirked: Mary, Bill and Brendan’s housemate, had made sushi and seven layer cake for the party. He stilled. “I’m still figuring out the last one.” He mused on his first and second marriages, and the puzzlements they left him with. It turns out relationships at 80 something may still be as difficult to navigate—as heartbreaking and as thrilling—as at 20 something. It seemed I have much to look forward to.

The conversation turned to cross-dressing. “I only ever cross-dressed twice. I’m not up for it now any more. When I was with my first wife, well, one day I decided to dress as a woman and go down to what would have been our local pub then. None of the lads recognized me! I came up behind one of the lads and reached down and squeezed his balls. The next day he discovered that it was me, I nearly got killed.” Gordon laughed to himself. I silently hoped I would be as cool as him at eighty.

Coolness is funny. Even though it was probably only true in middle school, I still think of the sides of rooms as my proper place in a party. An awkward place, but my place. Yet sitting next to Gordon, in the middle of Ireland, ensconced in a party with people whom I love and would want at my wedding if I could drag them away from their Irish kitchens and sushi making for long enough, I realized that something had changed. I had become utterly comfortable being at the center of the room; so comfortable that I was thoroughly enjoying sitting back on that couch, laughing till my cheeks hurt, as Gordon regaled me with his life-learnings and I wondered if I could ever be that cool.

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June 2010 Reflection

This is it, I thought as I awoke on my last morning of the final Mitchell retreat. My time in Ireland, with the other Mitchell Scholars: over. My year in Ireland: almost over. All morning long, I quietly mourned the end of an incredible year and the end of my Irish adventures.

*****

I’m famously terrible with goodbyes. I get teary in the days leading up to a big goodbye, and everything sets me off – the mere thought of a final farewell, the symbolism of a sunset, etc., etc. It’s a bit of an embarrassment when I find myself reduced to tears so easily. So I knew that my last month in Ireland would be rough: many opportunities to publicly humiliate myself with goodbyes to the Mitchells, my Irish friends, and #24 The Waterfront (our lovely home in Galway on the River Corrib).

The Mitchell goodbyes went better than expected. After a great week of activities – meeting Irish President Mary McAleese and receiving our class rings, becoming one with nature at Glenstal Abbey, participating in Listowel Writer’s Week, and enjoying time in the beautiful Glin Castle – we had one last big group hug in the parking lot of the Limerick train station. I held back my tears and laughed at the antics of the group as we said our goodbyes.

Saying goodbye to Galway and my friends there was another story. Once, in the days leading up to our departure, my husband Jon just said the word cry and I burst into tears – apparently unable to stop myself. As we packed up our belongings (…miniature Eiffel Tower from Paris, leggings I purchased at Dunnes for only €3, books on gender and economic development…) I thought about the many things I’d miss about Galway. First and foremost, my friends Laura and Avril, who share my interests and now know my quirks enough to tease me mercilessly; not to mention the community of friends I’ve built over the past year. But also: the swans, the Saturday market, the guy on Shop Street that sculpts a sleeping dog out of sand, the habit of taking tea four times a day, the discussions of local politics and the recession on Galway Bay FM. After days of preparations, Jon and I gathered our things and boarded the train. I thought about the loss of our happy little Galway life as we pulled out of the station and began to miss Ireland even though I was still within its borders. Just as expected: at least one public show of tears.

*****

When we arrived back in the United States, my dad welcomed us home with bottles of Guinness. He wanted us to have a little piece of Ireland when we returned. Over dinner with my grandpa and grandma, we cracked open the bottles and poured them the proper way. Grandpa took a couple of sips and asked, “Do any of you actually like this stuff?” He was right: Guinness from a bottle is not as good as it is from the tap. This was not a surprise, but Grandpa’s comment made us all laugh. The funny interaction between an American and something Irish reminded me of all the other interactions between the two cultures that I’ve seen over the past year.

There was the time, a couple weeks before we left Galway, that I checked my email and received a poem. Avril, who was sitting beside me, exclaimed, “I LOVE this poem!” The poem was one about summer by Carl Sandburg, a poet I have come to love from living in Chicago. Avril read it aloud, her Donegal accent filling the room, and I reflected on the beauty of finding an Irish friend who appreciates a Chicagoan’s poetry as much as I do.

I remember another time, months earlier, when my classmate Grainne happily informed me that her uncle was also from Chicago. “Maybe you’ve heard of him?” I laughed, reminded of the many times that Irish friends have asked me hopefully if I know their cousin who lives in Idaho, Pennsylvania, or Texas. “Chicago’s a big city, Grainne!” She defended herself by responding, “Well, he’s involved in politics. He’s worked really closely with Governor Quinn.” Oh, I thought, that’s different! It turns out that Grainne’s uncle is well known in Chicago, and Grainne was quite knowledgeable about Chicago politics. I would have never expected that one of my Irish classmates would have hosted the future Governor of Illinois at her home in County Mayo – but, she did!

I think back to an American Bluegrass festival held in Galway, conversations about American politics with the parents of Irish friends, and the time I explained the meaning of Thanksgiving to my classmates. In the US, I’m bombarded by Irish flags hanging over pubs in every city I visit and the ubiquitous Claddagh rings on women’s fingers. We spend our time reconnecting with friends and family, and talk to them not just about the ancient beauty of County Kerry, but also of the immigrant communities that we encountered in Galway, how the Irish educational system is different than the American one, and our peers’ viewpoints on social issues like gay marriage.

*****

As all of the thoughts of the connections between the US and Ireland flash through my mind, a truth emerges. Ireland has become a part of me more deeply and permanently than I expected. When I took the train out of Galway at the end of June, it didn’t represent the end of anything. My relationship with Ireland, as well as the other Mitchell Scholars, is far from over. It’s just beginning.

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June 2010 Reflection

These last few weeks when I bike or jog through the Botanic Garden I am overwhelmed by the sweet smell of the rose patch. I slow down a bit to appreciate the well-cultivated aisles bursting with tulips, foxglove and foliage. I slip under arches heavy with wisteria and try to absorb the moment. I’m trying to absorb all the little moments I have left in Belfast.

Little moments like weeks of Tuesday quiz. Every Tuesday since February I have spent the evening with a group of friends from my course at the Eglantine Inn’s quiz. We are mostly there for the company but make no mistake, we want to win. Our biggest competition is always a group of guys who collectively boast a few engineering pHds and an awful lot of knowledge. Like any good quiz team, we each have our strengths. Malachy is there for the music round. In less than 5 seconds of intro track Malachy can name the band and usually the song title as well. He is also quite good at sport questions. Larry just knows everything, current affairs, history, cricket statistics- he’ll probably know it. He can also solve an anagram in a split second, sometimes without even seeing it in front of him. Ian is the movie buff, but like Larry and Malachy he really just knows everything. Kerstie is the science side, with a huge working knowledge of Hollywood. If Perez Hilton has mentioned it in the last 2 years she’ll remember. Grace is there for . . .well mostly she’s there for comic relief, which is an important role, but she is also the most competitive member of the group often making intimidating gestures and cat-calls at opposing teams. And Monica and myself are there for the American questions, which we embarrassingly sometimes miss. Others join us from time to time, but for the most part, that has been our team. And while we don’t always win, we almost always celebrate with a kebab from next door (Gilgamesh, the best late-night kebab in Belfast).

But I’ve had big adventures these last few weeks as well. In June, Adam and I, realizing there was an awful lot of Ireland we had left to see, rented a little Nissan Micra, which we affectionately named Harold, and set of for a week of exploration, culminating with a visit to Galway to see Lauren and Jon. We started from Belfast and set out through Wicklow, stopping for the night in Kilkenny. While we hadn’t planned it, we ended up spending most of the next day exploring Kilkenny’s many shops, impressive castle and of course the Smithwicks brewery. Then it was onto the Killarney via the Rock of Cashel. We also managed to hit the entire Ring of Kerry and the Dingle peninsula before we landed in Galway. After two wonderful days with our hosts we headed back to Belfast passing through every small town in Ireland and getting stuck behind over 100 tractors to avoid tolls. And of course, like the true Southerners we are, we stopped at the Hill of Tara and took pictures. It was a great trip and I don’t think I could have made with anyone else. Adam has been my partner in crime in Belfast and abroad and this trip great way to end our time together in Ireland.

Last week, I took one more adventure, this time to Donegal with Larry to take in the striking northern coastline of wide, sandy beaches embraced by rocky hills and towering sand dunes. We visited Glenveagh National Park and Castle where we strolled through various themed gardens (of course my favorite was the vegetable patch). In Donegal I especially wanted to see the sunset over the Atlantic as a way to make a proper goodbye to the island. The first 4 days of the trip clouds obstructed my sunset dreams but on our last evening I noticed an orange glow reflecting off the dunes in front of our cottage and we raced up Horn Head to take in the view. Brilliant rusty oranges, yellow and reds lit up the evening sky, bordered by silvery blues and purples creating the most stunning sunset I’ve ever seen. Standing on the rocky hilltop I said a quiet good-bye to Donegal, to Ireland and to this year.

At the end of this adventure I can’t recall the central argument of my managing the sustainable business class but I can tell you how many times we won the quiz (3!), what the Botanic gardens smelled like in each season and how wide the beach was in Donegal. I can tell you about blues night at the Empire and running the marathon with the Mitchells. I know this is sappy, but this journey has been more than I could ever have imagined. I’ve made friends in Ireland that I hope to keep throughout my life and I’ve made lasting friends in fellow Mitchell scholars who intimately understand this experience. I am so thankful to my family for supporting me, to my professors and my program for their encouragement, to my fellow Mitchell scholars for the explorations, to the friends I’ve made here for welcoming me into their lives, and to the US-Ireland Alliance for giving me this opportunity of a lifetime.

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June 2010 Reflection

The day has come. We have finally received our coveted Mitchell rings. They are gorgeous pieces of jewelry made of recycled silver that came engrained with several symbols, including the salmon of knowledge.

I’m still trying to figure out what magical properties our rings possess. They unite our class of Mitchell Scholars, of course, and they serve as lasting symbols of our time and lifelong connection to Ireland.

I still think they can do something cooler. Like maybe with the power of all our rings combined we can summon the presence George Mitchell himself. Or the spirit of St. Patrick. Or at the very least a chubby green Irishman named Captain McPlanet who seeks to restore peace and balance throughout the land.

The rings are also symbolic of goals achieved. I now have a master’s degree in international human rights law, which is pretty cool. I survived the record floods, the “big freeze”, the invisible volcanic ash cloud, and the summertime “heat” waves, which is also pretty damn cool. I have ended an experience with an organization that is going on its eleventh year of sending very fortunate people to Ireland to study what they love and learn more about themselves along the way.

As the Irish would say, it’s been “feckin’ deadly.”

I came to Ireland with several other goals in mind, some more ambitious than others. The list included things like getting back into drawing, learning more about Irish history, writing more, becoming a better runner, and jumping into the Atlantic Ocean off of Galway’s coast.

I am proud to admit that at the top of my list was seeing the Cranberries perform live. It was an ambitious goal in the sense that the Cranberries had been on hiatus for years. As fate would have it they reunited and began a world tour shortly after I came to Ireland. During our trip in Brussels, I had the chance to see and hear them perform all of their classic songs, including Zombie, Linger, and Dreams.

Dreams is a beautiful song. I fell in love with it when it came out in 1993. I was in third grade at the time, and as I grew up and formulated my own hopes and dreams, I would listen to it often.

“Oh my life. Is changing everyday. In every possible way.”

Nearly fifteen odd years after first hearing the song, I find myself returning to it, as my entire life is about to change radically. For the first time in three years, I will be living in the United States. For the fourth time since college, I’m about to say goodbye to a way of life and an assortment of people, some of whom I may never see again.

Not everything has changed, per se. The end of my year in Ireland has come full circle in ways I never would have expected. Again I find myself squatting at the “Haus of BBM” (Irish friends named Bill, Brendan, and Mary). While the setting is the same, the dynamics of the household have transformed radically. Mary is off to live and work Japan in August, fulfilling her life’s dream to be in a place that has always provided her with incredible artistic inspiration from a distance. Bill is off to London and Borneo to work and pursue a PhD in geology. Brendan is on his way to Spain or Japan.

BBM aren’t the only ones who are leaving. My roommate Johnny left for Belgium. The Mitchells are scattering about, some returning to school and others to work. Lady Gaga’s left Europe and is probably touring somewhere in Asia.

When I do come back, the Ireland I have come to know and love will only be a memory. Gone will be the days of cooking Mexican food for the Mitchells and Irish friends with the setting sun glowing over Salt Hill. Gone will be the days of volunteering at Fighting Words as an illustrator and storyteller, helping children with their creative writing projects. I probably won’t be racing with Christina through the golden valleys of Connemara anytime soon. Who knows the next time I will be back to listen to Irish writers share their stories at Listowel. And if I’m dancing to Alejandro or Telephone, it won’t be with my crazy cast of Irish friends at Dignity, my favorite Galway club.

I have learned so much from this experience (i.e. it is humanly possibly to pronounce “Niamh” as “Niev”) and the people we met who opened their homes and lives to us. At the same time, I feel like I still know so little – a fact that was confirmed by a last place finish at a pub quiz in Belfast. A year simply isn’t enough time to take everything in. I feel like this entire experience has just begun, and now it’s already time to leave.

What I have failed to learn in terms of facts pales in comparison to what Ireland has taught me personally. I came to Ireland feeling like a very complete individual. I had severe doubts about how much a place known for its lack of sunshine and abundance of rain could change me. But it has. It wasn’t in the United States, Asia, or Latin America where I learned to reconnect on a much more intense level with my artistic side. I’ve been writing much more, and my friend Mary, a manga artist, has finally inspired me to design characters from my stories through painting and drawing. The writers at Listowel showed me how important it is to document our stories and memories. The kids at Fighting Words taught me not to be bashful about sharing our ideas and to be confident – if people don’t like what we do, then let them do something better.

Ireland also taught me the importance of human interaction. No matter what we are working on, it can usually be set aside for a chunk of time to talk with someone about life over a cup of tea and digestives.

“And then I open up and see the person falling here is me. A different way to be.”

I won’t miss everything, of course. Namely the time someone in a car threw a half-eaten apple at me while I was riding home on my bike. Or arriving to class soaked in rainwater. Or the near daily “shoutings” from perfect strangers reminding me of how brown my skin was or telling me to “cut my head” or to go back to France.

I still haven’t been able to figure out what these comments mean – one of the many things I walk away from Ireland not knowing. Are they meant to illicit a response? Are they meant to classify foreign looking people? Or am I just an easy target?

Our rings are engraved with another symbol that is supposed to be St. Patrick. To me it looks more like an old man with a walking stick. I like my interpretation of it, because everything that Ireland has given me this year will remain with me for a very long time. I have so much to thank the country and its people for, not to mention the other Mitchell Scholars who made this experience that much more enlightening. They constantly remind me of what it means to develop aspirations and strive to make our dreams a reality.

“They’ll come true. Impossible not to do. Impossible not to do.”

If I ever find myself faltering, I know I’ll have this ring to remind me of it all. If it can’t in fact summon George Mitchell or Captain McPlanet, that’s fine. I can deal with that, for the ring is already more than magical enough for me.

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June 2010 Reflection

Peculiar how sometimes you feel so keenly the absence of a thing, as if the very essence of the world has changed. I sunk my foot in the sand just beneath the tide. Pulling it out, I could feel the grainy turmoil of its absence, the watery silt and salt that rushed in to fill the space my foot had left. Strange. That’s not quite what I feel now though, for while my insides still ache the tide soon resumed its ebb with little trace of the space my foot had been. Perhaps absence serves a purpose, though; it is not until a drum is emptied that its heart beats loud, yearning for what was once there.

***
Absence
That which was, but now is not
That which was, but now is something else
That which never was
That which is, but will soon not be
That which is not yet
I. That which was, but now is not

For the past several months, I have felt the mounding melancholy as one after another of these Mitchell scholars who have become my best friends headed back to the States. It has given me the somewhat comic feeling of a strange adaptation of Agatha Christie’s murder mystery, “And Then There Were None.” Twelve scholars, on an island, with one after the other disappearing into the night. Of course, in this case there is neither murder nor mystery behind the disappearances, but rather family and jobs. I am officially the last one left (one little Mitchell schol sitting all alone; see the poem below, adapted from the Christie novel). It is strange to think that we are already scattered across the globe and will continue to be. It is impossible to think, however, that we have seen the last of each other. In their absence I feel with sad happiness how much their presence meant. From bagel making to blarney stones, GAA to USA, beer brewing to tea taking, laughter to farewell, book of kells to booking aerial adventures, we have grown too close to let that happen. Like a Gordian knot, we cannot be untied.

What a poor job I am doing spilling this well of emotion onto the inky page! Perhaps the poem will help:

Twelve Little Mitchell Schols

Twelve little Mitchell Schols set dough to leaven;
One got himself a union job and then there were eleven.

Eleven little Mitchell Schols danced in Glin;
One wandered off to meditate and then there were ten.

Ten little Mitchell Schols went downtown to dine;
One ate a Philly Cheese steak and then there were nine.

Nine little Mitchell Schols stayed out very late;
A big mosquito caught one and then there were eight.

Eight little Mitchell Schols traveling in Canaan;
One said she’d stay there and then there were seven.

Seven little Mitchell Schols building with bricks;
One said she’d rather plan and then there were six.

Six little Mitchell Schols at Sandycove for a dive;
Seersucker grabbed one and then there were five.

Five little Mitchell Schols sailed to Inis Mor;
One kept on west and then there were four.

Four little Mitchell Schols stared at the Abbey;
One walked in and then there were three.

Three little Mitchell Schols sought a math guru;
Hyperbolic space barred one and then there were two.

Two little Mitchell Schols guarding in the dun;
One flew home and then there was one.

One little Mitchell Schol sitting alone…
II. That which was, but now is something else

Uprooting myself from the Red Sox and tailgates of my home to plop down in city centre (not center) Dublin has been quite an education. Initially, it seemed like I was entering the absence of my own culture and presence another (see first reflection). But over the year, I have begun to appreciate just how mutable, sprawling, and interconnected “culture” can be. Too often did I think of culture as rooted in a place, when it seems likely to be more correct to say it is rooted in a people. Culture, like a stream of fragrant smoke, requires the wick and flame of the candle, but is not likewise restricted in its movement; rather, the smoke swirls and swells, wafting far to mingle its scent with the new, local cologne.

Perhaps, in this sense, the Vikings had a leg up. In the Icelandic Sagas, characters are defined not by their lands (this is secondary), but by their relations Ð familial and otherwise Ð which truly set the heroes in context regardless of whether they are sailing from Norway to England, Scotland, Ireland, Iceland, and even setting down brief tendrils in “Vinland,” the Americas. As I sat reading the Sagas in the same Dublin that had been taken over by Vikings over a thousand years earlier, I could see in the family feuds over honor insulted three generations back this new understanding slowly emerge.

It was with eyes primed with this Viking learning that I came across a very interesting example of the wandering culture. I was in my room late one grey night reading folk tales from the Appalachian mountains of Kentucky. I began a tale about the laziest, meanest man you ever did see, who worked as a blacksmith and for one reason or the other was struck by a speck of kindness one day and offered a hungry traveler some food. It turns out that the traveler is St Peter, who then grants the blacksmith three wishes. Being lazy, mean, and good-for-nothing, the blacksmith asks

That anyone who sits in his rocking chair may not get up until he said so
That anyone who grabs his hammer would have to go on pounding it against the anvil until he said so
That anyone who touches his thorny switch-making bush would get stuck on the inside of it until he said they could come out.
Of course St Peter gets mad at these inane wishes and storms out. The blacksmith over the next few days has three fights with his missus, each time she wishes a devil upon him. This being a tale, of course devils show up to take the blacksmith away, but each time he tricks the devils into 1) sitting in his chair, 2) hammering with his hammer, 3) touching the bush. Each time the devils are so distressed that they promise never to come back if he just lets them go. Well, the blacksmith dies, goes to heaven, and meets St Peter, who tells the blacksmith to turn around and go straight to hell. This he does, but when the devils see him coming, they bar the gate and tell him to go straight away from hell! Well, so the blacksmith, also named Will, wanders forever the swamps as a will-o-the-wisp.

Why I am spending so much time on this? It turns out that this story is the same as one collected by W.B. Yeats in the 1800s in Ireland. The only differences being that the Yeats version is more detailed, and thus makes more sense (the blacksmith does not just happen to be nice to the traveler, he, himself starving, feels a rare twinge of sympathy for the hungry old man and thus offers to warm him with his bellows. The Saint is St Moroky, the rocking chair is an armchair, and instead of a switch-makin-bush, he wishes for a money purse that no one could take anything out of except himself; he also grows rich by using these tricks on travelers and townspeople and demanding money to let them go; thus the devil comes to take him away for his bad deeds.

With a flow of people from Ireland to Kentucky, this wisp of culture came to the states, swirled up the east coast, and finally made its way to me, unrecognizable in its origins unless I had had intimate knowledge of the source. Perhaps that is why we see cultures as so separate from each other: they become so intertwined, transformed, cut down, built up, and passed from hand to hand, ear to ear, that we lose track of where they came from. Even though I am without Irish blood, I am beginning to see how much this culture, through its traveling people and traveling words, has woven its spidery threads into my culture. Perhaps it is more correct still to say that culture is rooted not in places or people, but ideas.

III. That which never was

Sitting in a tiny red van on its way to Newgrange, I checked the calendar again. Three weeks exactly. There’s no way. Impossible. Twenty one days? No. there is no way I can possibly fit it all in. So much left undone.
Báidín Fhéilimí, briseadh i d’Toraigh
Báidin Fhéilimí ‘s Fhéilimí ann
Báidín Fhéilimí, briseadh i d’Toraigh
Báidin Fhéilimí ‘s Fhéilimí ann
Báidin bídeach, báidín beosach,
Báidin bóídheach, báidín Fhéilimí
Báidín díreach, báidín deontach,
Báidin Fhéilimí ‘s Fhéilimí ann.
This Irish children’s poem I had come across while reading Barry McCrea’s First Verse speaks of Fheilimi and his little boat going to Toraigh, a small island off the coast of Donegal. Fheilimi’s little boat tries so hard to reach the island, but it crashes, drowning poor Fheilimi. I too will not make it to Toraigh, or to Donegal at all, the one county I missed this year in Ireland. Neither will I make it to the Aran Islands. So much left undone and its absence weighs heavily. This is perhaps the hardest type of absence to bear; my little boat, the DU society of brewers, was like Fheilimi’s sunk in the final hour at the hand of the raging sea of bureaucracy (although we ended up brewing anyway, as the Trinity Underground Brewers [TUB]). Ideas, fragile in their infancy, envisaged but never realized, leave haunting child-like ghosts.

IV. That which is, but soon will not be
Today the fire-alarm went off in the Rubricks, Trinity’s oldest residence and the one in which I am living out my last days in Dublin. Standing outside, I gazed up at its red brick and listened to the surprisingly charming clang-clang-clang. The fire alarm was the type in silent movies, a red saucer-shaped bell with a hammer. Despite their faults, Trinity – and Dublin – has a unique magic that I will miss. The late night conversations in my closet kitchen, the clank of my bicycle as it shakes across the front square cobblestones, the lost tourists, knocking on the grand Trinity gate and sheepishly presenting a key and a card to gain access to my home after a night at the pub, the corned beef at O’Neill’s, my friends the bog people at the national museum, shows at the Abbey.

As I read the First Verse, the main character played out his story of Dublin and Trinity in the pub, street, and buildings that I have come to know; I could feel his movements. And as I did, felt this place as a friend. I will miss it.

V. That which is not yet

I know I am not finished with Ireland and the Mitchells. Adventures lay ahead: collaborations, café rendezvous, conferences, Mary Lou’s parties, return, renewal. And perhaps this time, Fheilimi’s little boat will make it to Toraigh.

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June 2010 Reflection

Adam, you are transforming into a full-blooded Irishman. To me this Facebook message from my friend, Barry, meant one thing: success. My goal for this year was to really absorb as much of Ireland & its culture as possible. With family roots in Northern Ireland, I wanted to leave feeling connected as a part of this magnificent place. As I reflect back on my time here, I know that my goal has been accomplished. As further proof, I get really gloomy and have a difficult time fathoming what it will be like to leave this wonderful island that I have called home for the last year.

It is hard to summarize my time here as I have had terrific experiences meeting so many fabulous people, traveling to take in new sights, and learning more than I could have ever expected. Looking back over the last month alone is enough to blow one’s mind. After finishing exams, Bre, Christina, Alec, Neil & I took a real European holiday to Tenerife in the Canary Islands. A week later, I returned to Ireland very tan and ready for Mitchell commencement in Dublin. After some kind words from President Mary McAleese, we received our class rings, which serve to remind us of our connection to Ireland and to one another. A night out in Dublin was the proper way for us to ring out the year before people began to depart.

After a trip to Writer’s Week & Glin Castle, I then headed to Limerick to meet my friends, Thomas & Daniel. Here I got to see the Ireland International Rugby team play a match in Thomond Park, one of the largest and more historic stadiums in the country. From here, Daniel & I got to attend a birthday party at a beach home in rural County Clare. Highlights included gorgeous scenery in Clare, once again being stereotyped and entertaining people with Sweet Home Alabama, and witnessing the reactions of my “Nordie” friend Daniel in his first trip that far south into the Republic. Then, it was back to Belfast where I presented my research on social farming to stakeholders from around Northern Ireland. I did not expect that my work for DARD would result in people thanking me for bringing attention to the topic and really galvanizing a movement here.

After this, I ended up on two roadtrips. The first took Bre, Christina, myself & a visiting friend up the Causeway Coast and into Donegal to gaze at the striking majesty of Slieve League. On the way, we managed to stop for coasteering: a new adventure sport that puts you in a wetsuit and sends you climbing over rocky cliffs to jump into the ocean! After this trip, Bre & I were inspired to adventure into the southwest of Ireland to see everything we could. Travelling almost 1,000 miles in 5 days, we crossed the Wicklow Mountains, drank Smithwick’s at the brewery in Kilkenny, successfully drove both the Ring of Kerry & the Dingle Peninsula, gazed at the legendary Cliffs of Moher, paid homage to our Southern roots and Gone with the Wind at the Hill of Tara, and visited with the Parnell Marinos in Galway before they left for the states. To top it off, I’m back in Belfast continuing work on my thesis on rural brain drain, where I was even lucky enough to get to meet with Michelle Gildernew, the Minister of Agriculture and Rural Development, to get her comments on the topic.

All of this has taken place in the last month alone, and that’s not even including the farewell parties and my new found obsession with football (soccer) as I try my best not to miss a World Cup match. Nor does it include my getting involved with the political process here in seeing Prime Minister David Cameron come to Northern Ireland just before the election or getting to ask a question at the nationally televised leaders’ debate on BBC. I am now less than three weeks away from leaving myself, and while I am excited to see family and friends at home, I am filled with dread about parting with the life I have created for myself in Northern Ireland. I still am astonished at how I have become completely immersed in this place in such a short time. My life has been completely changed by this experience. When I came here, I worried about surviving outside of the US without my family, my friends, Crimson Tide football, politics, and sweet tea. I leave here worrying about how I will adjust to live back stateside and how I’ll survive without my brilliant Irish friends, rugby & soccer, my daily dose of sectarian politics, and Irish staples like Harp, kebabs, and shortbread biscuits.

I consider myself the luckiest person in the world and feel humbled for this opportunity that was given to me. For that, I must thank Trina, Jennie, Mary Lou, and all the supporters of the US-Ireland Alliance. I have been blessed by the chance to study at a terrific university in Queen’s and live in the one of the most interesting cities and countries in the world. I must also thank Jude Stephens and the staff of the Gibson Institute for sharing their knowledge of rural development and giving me the support I need to successfully learn. I also need to thank Zita Murphy and the staff at DARD for giving me a meaningful internship that was more than I could have asked for in providing me with real life practical experience. My time here would not have been so fulfilling without wonderful friends. I consider all of my fellow classmates and fellow rural champions as my friends and colleagues now. I appreciate them taking me under their wings and dealing with my incessant questions about the litany of things I did not understand when I first came here. Special thanks to Barry McCarron, Daniel McDowell, and Thomas Kelleher for everything…you lads are the best! Lastly, I must thank my fellow Mitchell Scholars who I have bonded with over the past year. You all have enriched my experience here, and for that, I am grateful. However, I am especially thankful that I had a partner-in-crime here in Belfast. Bre, I’m so glad I had you as a friend to keep me company in watching American TV, eating tons of Nando’s, travelling, and being ridiculous as often as humanly possible.

Well, as they say here, that’s me sorted. It’s time to go home and get back to work in America. While I wanted to become part of the culture here, I never expected that I would so fully embrace it to the point that I do not want to let go. The good news is that I won’t have to let go. From now on, I will identify myself with Ireland while proudly claiming my Ulster heritage. I plan to be back here as often as possible to visit friends and to get my fill of the banter and accents, the stunning landscapes, and the tragic history of this place and its effects moving forward. So Ireland, thanks for memories and friendships that will last a lifetime. Slán go fóill!

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June 2010 Reflection

Homeless for 22 days, I found myself in an interview with the general manager of Castle Leslie Estate as he said, “So I’m afraid we won’t be able to offer you summer accommodation.” Fact: I have a job. Caveat: I have nowhere to stay. (Normally I’m a tad more prepared for major life events.) The manager continued, “I’m curious why you chose to come to Glaslough instead of pursuing employment closer to Limerick.”

Why did I want to work across the island, braving five and a half hours of trains, buses, and bicycles each way? First, the Scholars visited Castle Leslie during our midyear retreat and I fell in love with the area and their horses. Second, I needed a break from schoolwork. I could stay in Limerick over the summer and work in a lab; but after learning two new musical instruments and a vast repertoire of Irish folk songs on the fly, I needed an environment where I could, as Matt Baum would affectionately say, “feela drop in blood pressure.” Third, I thrive in the countryside. Limerick is actually much nicer than it’s reputation, but while not a thriving metropolis, it’s urban population is still on par with Montana’s largest city, Billings, around 90,000. Relocating to a sleepy town of less than 700 would be more similar to how I grew up. Fourth, I could hop onto my bicycle and over to N. Ireland a few miles away whenever I felt like spending less money. Save an unnatural affinity to Munster Rugby, tea, fish & chips, and an accent that ended every sentence with “like” or “ya,” my generation in Limerick seemed to be, like, a parody of American music, cinema, and even fast-food restaurants, like. (Subway is quite possibly the Starbucks of Limerick. I believe I have counted 8 in the city–3 within two blocks and 2 on campus.) Don’t get me wrong, my classmates at the Irish World Academy of Music and Dance at UL and my Irish roommates always brought a lot of culture into our music and discussions, but I wanted to live it.

So, in true crazy-Colvin form–to the discomfort of my mother–I began to solicit anyone I could think of to stay with in Co. Monaghan (i.e. peers, friends of friends, pastors) until I could locate an apartment. A special thanks is due to the Dublin Scholars and Lauren for being such great hosts during my limbo. On the verge of defeat, a pastor emailed back saying a family named the Russell’s would be happy to have me for about a week until I got on my feet. Hallelujah! With a feeling of déjà vu, I packed up my clothes, computer, and guitar, then boarded the train for a completely unknown situation. Little did I know that within a few short days I would meet nearly as many people in Monaghan as I knew in Limerick.

The first two days were a whirlwind of relatives and chats over tea. I met David and Millie Russell’s two daughters, son, daughter-in-law, son-in-law, and two grandsons during a Saturday family dinner. The next day, Sunday, I met half the town and more relatives at church. David took me on a drive to Castleshane (well-named I thought) where he grew up and pointed out where three of his eight siblings live within earshot of each other; and of course we dropped in for tea with two of them. The days slipped by and still I couldn’t find a place to live. Completely unexpected, the Russell’s graciously offered to have me at their home until the end of the summer. It has been extremely touching how this family I had barely known for a week has since nearly adopted me.

Strange, how the most basic activities of life can generate such powerful attachments. Millie wakes me up for work in the morning by shouting “Shane, are ya livin’ or are ya dead?” After breakfast (and what else, tea) I bicycle two miles to the Castle (which I’m told is far too much exercise). The staff often get a chuckle from my American ignorance. I once spent half an hour looking for a spare “cot.” To me this meant a full-size, foldable bed, but to them it meant a baby crib. Each day I discover a fascinating antique, painting, or a forgotten, moss-covered corner of the estate. On the ride back from work I usually have to stop to let cows cross the road to be milked; more often than not I will be caught in the rain. During one downpour, a trainer from the Castle Equestrian Centre started waving and hollering from the field; simultaneously, as if rehearsed, a different coworker honked at me as she zipped by in her car. Of course the next day everyone was talking about the attempted homicide and joked in good humor whether “the Yank” would survive the summer. Before and after dinner there is usually time to help about the place by painting fences, pouring concrete, mending things about the house, or learning how to drive a manual on the wrong side of the road. Later in the day we sing Irish songs along with my guitar, watch World Cup football matches (to which the Irish will never forgive the French for qualifying), or have visitors.

One drizzly evening, two of the Russells and a friend were matching me up with all the eligible lasses of the area. Though sitting at the table, I apparently had no say in the matter as they intently discussed prospects.

“Wet the tea there, would ya Millie?”

“Pretty soon we’ll have there Shane married off.”

“Aye, but ya know there wouldn’t be many free ones abou’ t’would there?”

“Aye, surely, there wouldn’ be, an’ that’s the truth.”

“What about your man’s daughter who went to study in London?”

“No, she’d be to old for ‘im so she would.”

“How old is he [Shane] again?”

“Twenty-five just, so he said the other day.”

“Surely now?”

“Aye, surely.”

“Then perhaps the girl there at the wee shop down the hill at Paddy’s.”

“Seventeen just she is, a mite young for ‘im, an’ a redhead at that.”

“Aye, but it’s better to be an old man’s sweetheart than a young man’s slave.”

As I tried to decipher this last nugget of Irish wisdom, I began to worry they were seriously conspiring to have me matched by summer’s end. My father wouldn’t be disappointed if I brought back an Irish lass, but I doubt I would successfully convince her to move to Montana where it snows seven months or more each year.

That’s a small town for you; nowhere to hide. Still, I love that at one end of town rests a sign embossed with Fàilte (Welcome), and another with Slán (Farewell) only three minutes walk away. I know all the neighbors’ dogs, their names, and their favorite places to get a good scratch. The stars are ever clear and vibrant, and the air is always freshly crisp from constant rain. But what I love most of all is the serene silence. Nothing is theoretical or academic…it just is. Real people are leading real lives with sincerity and genuine concern (or in rare cases distain) for those around them. Over the last year, and especially this past month, I have fallen in love with the culture. Paradoxically, I have never been more homesick.

For all the country’s rolling hills and tranquil landscape, the religious and political tensions are extremely palpable. I’ve watched the Protestant Grand Orange Order marching with their full dress and bagpipes, surfacing memories of it’s roots in William of Orange’s victory at the Battle of the Boyne. The next day, a prominent Sinn Fein member, and former mayor of Monaghan, just sat down next to me and started talking politics at a BBQ fundraiser. Perhaps the best representation I have seen of the opposing factions rests in a road project along the N2 near Monaghan to N. Ireland. Three proposed routes have farmers in an uproar, as some options bisect their properties or even run over their homes. Who is on the deciding council? What is the religious and/or political persuasion of those giving or receiving compensation? Who is going to get a job in the construction? Where is the money coming from: the EU, Ireland? In an ideal world everyone might work together to obtain the best, most logical solution. Yet, as David Ford succinctly told the Scholars at Stormont, “Never base politics on logic here.” Until recently I don’t think I realized just how much of a difference there is debating with high up-politicians and universities versus the people who are affected. I wanted to experience the real Ireland; here it is.

If I was brutally honest, would I come back to live in Ireland? Probably not. Despite all its enchantments and deep musical history, my heart belongs in the mountains. Would I come to visit? Absolutely, and as often as I could. David Russell was very pleased with himself that he had seen the old Western movie “Shane” and jokes that when I leave everyone will chorus, “Come back Shane, come back!” I feel I now have two new families: the Mitchells and the Russells. Like a palimpsest, this is another layer of experiences that will not define me completely, as other adventures and journeys take the spotlight; but a portion will always shine strongly throughout my entire life.

There are inherent boundaries of written language, and some things you cannot accurately capture. For me one of them would be the Mitchell experience. Schumann was once asked to describe one of his compositions. In reply he simply played the music. As I finish up an extraordinary first year and anticipate a second, I have only been able to proffer a taste in these reflections. My advice to a candidate or future Scholar taking the time to read this, just go out and live it for yourself. It’s only once… Slán.

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March 2010 Reflection

Maybe it’s a little premature, but as my time here in Ireland winds down I can’t help but reflect on the moments from the past year that I won’t soon forget:

· -Along with two other Mitchells, celebrating the passage of health care reform with Cuban cigars. All ironies intended.

· -Kissing the blarney stone at the height of the Swine Flu epidemic.

· -A night at the Empire club in Belfast, wherein I learned that even five middle-aged denizens of Belfast can sing the blues.

· -With Sarang and Matt, accidentally driving halfway across Ireland in the wrong direction on our drive back to Dublin from Bushmills. Despite frequent signs proclaiming that we were traveling “WEST,” and the composition of a song to go with the signs saying “WEST,” it took us near an hour to realize we were, well, traveling West.

· -Going clubbing with a 93-year-old member of the British aristocracy, who just so happens to own Winston Churchill’s christening outfit and a quill from Pope Pious IX.

· -Sampling Matt’s home-made oatmeal stout, which despite a distinct lack of carbonation could rival Ireland’s finest.

· -A vicious debate on the Lisbon treaty at UCD that made clear political rancor is not uniquely American.

· -Sending Shane and John Marino on a search across a sleepy Country Antrim to find poppy and sesame seeds for everything bagels. They returned, triumphant.

· -Following six nations rugby at my favorite pub on Parnell Street.

· -A lunch of bangers and mash at Dublin’s Gruel.

· -For that matter, any of my many trips to Howth, ostensibly for the cliff walk, but really for Beshoff Bros’ haddock and chips.

· -Watching garda pose for pictures with tourists in Temple Bar on St. Patrick’s Day. Something tells me the NYPD wouldn’t be so amenable.

· -Thanksgiving in Dublin with Trina and the rest of the Mitchell family.

· -Realizing that a particular bog person in the national museum has a striking resemblance to John Boehner.

· -Discovering the budget-stretching power of eating Flahavan’s porridge two meals a day.

· -Witnessing national agony when a cheating France topped Ireland and eliminated the Republic from World Cup contention.

· -A beautiful day spent in Galway’s Saturday market.

· -The smell of burning turf wafting out of homes in the Ulster-American Folk Museum.

· -And reading Joyce’s Dubliners along the Liffey.

With two more months in-country, I intend to add to my list.

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March 2010 Reflection

The fourth week I was in Galway I did not know what to do with myself. The second I had been livid. The eighth I was impressed. And now, I am pondering a crusade.

In college philosophy class Shelly Kagan told us that people often weight the concerns they see in front of their eyes more heavily than others-even if philosophically they are identical. And I think it is this exactly that has underpinned each of my weeks’ variations.

***

My fourth week in Galway I did not know what to do with myself.

It had all started out pretty easy. I’ve been working with refugees since before college. I believe in it as something that makes moral-courage a baseline-safe affair. (It is never pleasurable to think about how standing up against discrimination might cost you your life in your home country, but at least it is that much easier to do if you know that you can leave and some place will take you in if your claim is good enough.)

Triona welcomes me with warmth that only an older Irish woman can have-chatting to me as if we were old friends the second time we meet. In our welcome meeting, she says that she wishes she could say Ireland was a better place for asylum seekers. For a country where generation after generation has been immigrants elsewhere, this country of all countries, should know how to treat asylum seekers. It reminded me of the Bible verse: “Also you shall not oppress a stranger: for you know the heart of a stranger, seeing you were strangers in the land of Egypt.” (Exodus 23:9)

Now, in principle I agree. But often enough over the past weeks, when talking with refugees or faced with their daily problems my first response has been to come up with an excuse or remind them that things could be worse. I walk out of these rooms and every time, even before I am in the hallway, I wonder why I responded as I did.

It is not what I meant or even what I believe. And usually you want to be sympathetic, not unsympathetic. So why have I been responding the way I have? I think one part of it might be that I can see so clearly what it takes to make the system run. How easy it would be for system administrators to put asylum seekers in prison as holding places, as they do in the US, rather than direct provision hostels, troubled as they are. (And they are troubled, horribly: there is little privacy, even less inspection, outsiders are not allowed in, and basic things like food seem to be more a money making scheme for the providers than meant to provide what the asylum seekers need.) I can see how easy it is for politicians to cut the asylum budget, or not extend upper level health care to them. Of course I also see the middle-men getting rich while holding a hard line against the asylum seekers they provide for, but that too is easy to imagine: they are just doing their business, and their job-mandate is to make a profit. What is hard to imagine is the realities of being an asylum seeker. How can I even call up a scene of the conditions that would make one want to be an asylum seeker? The scenes are hard to imagine happening to me. Functioning in a new culture in a different language without freedom of movement and no community nearby and no Skype? It’s not only disparate from my experience (and there fore hard to fill in the details) but also unpleasant to imagine too closely. There are so many things you need and I know we don’t provide, I’d prefer not to think too closely.

One thing I did realize was that suddenly, in our interactions, I had become the establishment. Someone who was integrated in the system and knew how to get things done.

It had not been so on week two of my stay in Galway. On week two I was livid. I had been standing out in the cold, in an industrial park outside the city, in the dark, for two and a half hours. And I could think of at least six ways to run the system better.

With a few exceptions, everyone who arrives in Ireland and is not from the EU must register with the Garda (police). I had spent the last two weeks running around setting up a bank account in a fifteen-minute break and gathering letters from this office and that to bring to the Garda. And the day before I had cleared the whole day’s schedule (I was told it could take a while and you better not plan on doing anything else that day), and walked out to the practically hidden office, arriving puffing fifteen minutes after it opened-only to be greeted with sad smiles by other applicants. Clearly I was new. There were no tickets left. You had to arrive before the doors opened to get in the mad rush for tickets. How early had they arrived? 6am. And they might still be waiting at 1pm to even talk with someone. Some waited till 4 and were never seen the whole day.

The next day, determined to get an early ticket, I got up at 5:30, took a taxi to the abandoned industrial lot, and as the taxi drove away, wondered at the wisdom of waiting in the frost in the dark in a silent lot outside the city, a lone female. I felt suddenly vulnerable. Within the next hour people piled in from all over the surrounding city and country side, but it did not make me feel any less vulnerable. Each new arrival was nervous, bleary and cold. As we waited I got more and more frustrated. Surely it was not so hard to put slots online and let people sign up and arrive for their appointments on time instead of 7 hrs in advance? Or like medical offices, you could call for an appointment. Or there could be a paper sign up sheet, that they took in when it was full. Maybe some people do not have phones or internet or the ability to come in and sign their name? They could reserve 3 spots a day for drop-ins. At a minimum, they could put on the website the fact that you have to arrive before the office opens to get a ticket. I had to come in person to figure that out, and was lucky I did not have to take off work. And the University had even briefed me on what I needed to do. Or, at the very least, a sign at the door when all the tickets have been taken (which, everyday, is at opening time. While I sat several couples came in and tried to sit down silently and wait to be called. They would have sat all day.) In the dark and cold, I began brainstorming why they might not do this. Most are well know systems that work in offices around the world. The majority cost less than $20. They have full authority to do it. What else? Stamping my feet to chase away the cold and furious from both mornings’ adventures I felt there was no other conclusion: it was not in the city’s interest to make it easy for immigrants. In fact you could imagine why a system that was frustrating and impossible to navigate might be intentionally preferred. In the dark I noted quietly that they made a different system for foreign undergraduate students, where they sign up and come at their designated time. Oh to be an elite!

When I entered and at long last saw the man everyone was waiting for, he was brusque and short tempered. Totally uninterested in being polite, he needed my fingerprints: first two thumbs and then two forefingers. Then into another room for all ten pressed down. Then each finger rolled onto a surface, repeating often for misreads. Then back out where he took my thumbs again to make sure it was me and that I had not changed hands between the two rooms. You would have thought I’d done something wrong or at least had threatened to. I walked home, and picked up my dignity at the door on the way out. That day, I had had no trouble imagining what it was to be an immigrant. I hope they change the system, but I’m glad I was there. In week two I was a stranger and a suspect.

***

In my eighth week I was impressed.

Ireland is in a period of intense change. I don’t think I realized this until the St Patrick’s Day Parade.

Like scores of others I decked my self in a range of shades of mismatched greens and crowded to the parade streets. We piled ourselves five deep and balanced on railings, climbed into trees, even stood on the bridge pillars to get a better view. The floats were by turns hilarious and creative: real boats drawn by horse with ten year olds dressed like old Irish men and women sitting inside them, waving plastic fish; church group re-enactments of cowboy-and-Indian scenes teaching basic morality (how I’m not quite sure); squeaky lower school marching bands. Much more striking though were not the costumes but the identities of the floats. Some were what you would expect: middle school groups, arts camps, a church or two-but far out-weighting these were the Nigerian groups, the Russian Paper Crane Association, the East Asian Group (not dressed up as anything but all carrying their kids and decked with smiles), the Galway Traveler Movement (representing Roma); the Middle Eastern Belly Dance troupe; The Tae Kwon Do group demonstrating moves on the back of a truck bed with loud yells, the group who were doing African Drumming in Ghanaian garb….even a community security force that was mainly made up of women, including some in their sixties. The train went on and on. Some of the loudest cheers were for the groups I thought were most socially ostracized.

Somehow, in the past years celebrating being Irish has come to include celebrating being Nigerian and Russian and East Asian. It would be a parody if it weren’t actually real.

On that day, I saw several Nigerian faces with green hats and red beards, and it did not even seem weird. Now I admit this normalcy wasn’t entirely expected for me. On days that don’t honor St Patrick I’ve seen other things: drunks weaving trying to grab a young black man saying things I hope I did not hear right, moments when it seems that everyone on the street is drunk and yelling, and as far as I can tell the only three people the police stop are sober quiet Roma women. But St Patrick’s Day reminded me that the city and whoever put this together consciously chose to celebrate the diversity of origins that now is Ireland.

***

Triona and I were brainstorming. They wanted to use the media. But most media outlets, when they write about asylum seekers, write skeptically or often write about how they might take away jobs from locals. (Never mind that asylum seekers are not allowed to work.) It could be worse than counter-productive to ask the media to write a story. And yet in my mind, the journalists responses’ were reasonable: the journalists had no more contact than I with the asylum process (despite all my volunteering and law), but plenty of contact with lost jobs and uncertain futures. Plus, it is not news worthy. Then we got to talking about Labor in the Pulpits, a movement in the US where churches, mosques and synagogues talk about a Biblical or Quaranic quote and then bring in a local guest speaker who exemplifies this issue. The one year I saw it they talked about the Biblical precept forbidding withholding wages, and brought in a Mexican tile worker who told about one recent week where the employer promised him a wage and then after the work was done kept on telling him to come back at different times, and then, after weeks of this, outright refused to pay anything. It was hard to listen to but his face has staid with me. Maybe this was what I needed. The response to my troubled knee-jerk replies… Passover is upon us and the time for liberation from suffering. The liberation that forms a nation. Easter is upon us and the time of redemption from suffering. The redemption that comes from love beyond social ostracism.

“Also you shall not oppress a stranger: for you know the heart of a stranger, seeing you were strangers in the land of Egypt.” (Exodus 23:9) Perhaps it is this that I came to Ireland to learn.

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March 2010 Reflection

What do you want to be when you grow up? It’s a question that you are asked a thousand times as a child, and with less frequency as an adult. At various points in my life, I’ve known exactly what I’ve wanted to be (in no particular order): an archaeologist, journalist, Broadway actress, Vanna White, neonatologist, gymnast, explorer, or rainforest researcher. I’ve been asking the question to myself lately, trying to decide what my next step should be in my quest to become someone who does international development work for a living. But as I ponder what I hope to become, I can’t help but think about who I want to become. It’s a subtle difference, but an important one. The what is about profession and the who is about character.

My time in Ireland as a Mitchell Scholar has introduced me to a number of people that give me insight and inspiration into what and who I want to be. I’ve encountered them at Mitchell events, in my program here at NUI Galway, and in my daily life in and around this beautiful country.

Let’s start with someone pretty easy, and fairly obvious: George Mitchell. Although I haven’t met him, this year has given me a lot of exposure to his life and work. The sheer number of roles that Senator Mitchell has taken on is inspiring – judge, Senator, peace broker, Chancellor of Queens University Belfast… the list goes on. Although I could probably write a dissertation-length essay about how Senator Mitchell inspires me professionally, I’ll just highlight one point here. After a life filled to the brim with public service, Senator Mitchell has certainly earned a relaxing retirement on the golf course in Arizona. Instead, he said yes when he was asked to take on arguably today’s most challenging issues: the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. His life-long commitment to service is something I will always strive to emulate in my own career.

Another person that I have taken career inspiration from is Naila Kabeer. Dr. Kabeer is one of the preeminent scholars on women’s employment and empowerment in the Global South. My department hosted her for a public lecture last week, and she also facilitated a private session with my classmates and me earlier in the day. Dr. Kabeer has spent her career trying to understand how women are able to make decisions in their lives, and her research directly impacts what development agencies do on the ground. Dr. Kabeer’s explicit link between academia and the lived experience of marginalized people is something I hope to be able to bring to my career as well, no matter what role I am in.

While Senator Mitchell and Dr. Kabeer have taught me a lot about what I want to be professionally, others I have met in Ireland have reminded me of how I want to live my life. Of course, it goes without saying that I am constantly learning from the other Mitchell Scholars and taking inspiration from them. I still cannot get over how energetic and ready to learn the group is – constantly open to new experiences and new ideas. And I could extol their virtues for another dissertation-length essay. I will spare you the mushy stuff, this time, but please know that the Mitchells are a well of perpetual inspiration for me.

My Irish friend Bill has been a model for me in terms of the kind of person I want to be, as he is one of the most hospitable people I have ever met. Hospitality may seem a minor thing – that is, until you are lost and alone in a new place and don’t know who to turn to for help. Michael met Bill right at the start of the year and introduced Jon and me to him several days after we arrived in Galway. From the start, Bill has been warm, welcoming, and helpful. Anytime we have had a stupid question about Irish life, we’ve known that Bill is the person to ask. He always gives great advice and doesn’t make you feel like a fool for asking about the tipping protocol at a café or where to find reasonably priced office supplies. Bill’s ability to take in total strangers and treat them as equals and friends is something I would like to practice in my own life. Although I think that Irish people generally do welcoming and hospitality quite well as a culture, I still think that Bill wins an award for the best!

If you’ve been reading the other Mitchell scholar’s entries already, I have a feeling you’ve stumbled across a character known to us fondly as Sir John. Sir John is a 94-year-old aristocrat from Monaghan and a man who has lived a very full life. Growing up in Castle Leslie, a glorious estate on the border of Northern Ireland and the Republic, Sir John led an exceptional life from the beginning. He went on to fight in World War II and was held as a prisoner of war. Sir John later traveled the globe, and settled for 40 years in Rome, rehabilitating old buildings to their former splendor. When he returned to Ireland 15 years ago, Sir John decided to focus his energy on something new: dancing. Not just old time Irish step dancing, but clubbing. Weekly, Sir John gets dressed in his Saturday best and hits up his two favorite Monaghan spots, the Squealing Pig pub and the Forum club. We were invited for a night out with Sir John during our midyear retreat at Castle Leslie and danced alongside him while he jumped enthusiastically to Lady Gaga. It really was a sight to behold. After meeting Sir John, I have taken a new approach to thinking about aging. Now, I don’t want to age gracefully, but I want to age the way that he has: with reckless abandon and complete joy.

These examples represent just a handful of those I’ve taken inspiration from this year. I know that I will always look back to my year as a Mitchell Scholar as hugely formative – not just professionally, but personally as well.

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March 2010 Reflection

There is something to be said for the act of traveling. When people talk about their “travels,” they are usually referring to times spent in destinations and the memories that come home afterwards. In January, I did not take a 12-hour bus ride along the Upper Atlas Mountains of Morocco, on what was supposed to be a road but would have been more accurately described as the bare mountainside, for the joy of a drive. No, I took the bus to get from Erfud to Nador. That’s it. But when I reflect on my brief stint in Morocco, one of the most salient memories I have is of this bus ride. Fear for one’s life embosses a moment into the brain. As the other seventy-five passengers and I were slammed against glass and flung into the aisle, where the unlucky passengers without seats stood, I was forced to accept that life was not going to become any better for another ten hours unless I embraced the thrill of the ride.

The Moroccan ballads blaring for the entirety of the bus ride, the curves, the sweat, the stale smell of body, and the fidgety teenager sitting next to me all returned to my mind as I ascended to the granite peak of Purple Mountain in County Kerry in March. I am not sure why. To gaze upon the shimmering lakes of Killarney while contemplating loud music, nausea, horrid scents, and an obnoxious bus companion was like eating smoked salmon and black licorice at the same time. They don’t go together very well, and the latter is best to avoid if possible. During this conflict for space in my consciousness — Kerry landscape vs. Moroccan bus adventure — I wondered if these two moments cohabited my thoughts because they were dramatically different in purpose and context yet so similar in itinerary. I subjected myself to the bus out of necessity; I needed to be in Nador the next morning to catch a flight. But I trekked to the summit of Purple Mountain out of desire to see Ireland from a different angle; I wanted to see something new. Although my reasons for traveling in these two situations were different, they both involved a destination as my goal, a disproportionate amount of time traveling to that destination, and a fleeting moment once there. Why does one travel for 6- to 12-hours to reach a place where little time will be spent? It sounds crazy to do such a thing in Middle-of-Nowhere Morocco, but it’s standard fare for a day-trek.

Even when I am not exploring Ireland or another country, this behavior seems to recur at my desk in Cork. I sit here for countless hours each week, working on research projects to attempt to generate knowledge about Irish health issues and about more general epidemiological topics. The use of the scientific method is akin to the act of traveling. One begins with a hypothesis and arrives at a conclusion by way of the method, similar to how one originates in location A and goes to location B by way of a bus or one’s feet. The method can be thought of as a mode of transportation, with which one may take many possible routes, just as a bus driver can take one of many roads or a trekker can take one of many paths. The value of science resides not just in the knowledge it generates but also in the process with which one achieves that knowledge, and the value of traversing rivers and climbing rocks to get to the top of a mountain is not just in reaching the mountaintop but also in the climb itself. So it seems that I should embrace my bus ride from Erfud to Nador. Perhaps I should find value in the blaring Moroccan ballads, the curves, the sweat, the stale smell of body, and the fidgety teenager sitting next to me — well, maybe not him — and consider the bus ride to be my destination.

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