Outside the Dublin Bubble

After living in New York City, Dublin is a refreshing change of pace. To me, it has the amenities without the hassle—a walkable city centre, diverse restaurants, gritty cobblestoned streets contrasted with the high-rises of Silicon Docks, and an absurdly high pub-to-people ratio.

Still, Dubliners will be the first to urge you to spend time outside of the city. Dublin has a relatively thriving economy that drives the rest of Ireland’s, and is home to a disproportionately high number of international residents. As such, one of my goals this semester has been to venture outside of the Dublin bubble and see more of Ireland. Two trips in particular stand out to me—Belfast and Connemara.

Living in Ireland, it is impossible to ignore the history of the Easter Rising, War of Independence, decades-long Troubles in Northern Ireland, and eventual Good Friday Agreement of 1998 led by Senator George Mitchell, for whom this scholarship is named. But as an American living in Dublin, I haven’t experienced the impacts of the conflicts in my day-to-day. During our mid-year Mitchell trip, I could see clearly how years of violence left a tangible mark.

One of the most poignant moments for me was viewing the “Peace Wall” along Shankill Road and Falls Road. The wall is some 20 feet high and separates the Protestant and Catholic areas of West Belfast. We viewed it first from the Protestant side, where messages are scrawled up and down. Then we drove around to the Catholic side and stared up the same wall looking back.

Peace Wall of Belfast

Our guide, Dr. Dominic Bryan of Queen’s University, explained the effects of the walls on the city psyche. People on both sides want to live peacefully, and the walls help them feel safe and secure. Even though my time in Belfast was short, that trip was one of my most meaningful excursions outside Dublin.

Wall down Shankill Road

Two months later, Lillian and I trekked out to the western coast to run the Connemara half-marathon. The first half of the race went relatively smoothly. Lillian and I kept up with our designated pacer, and our legs were thankfully holding out. Then, as we rounded the corner after mile nine, we began the infamous Hell of the West—a two-mile slow incline up and around a hill that did not seem to end. All I can say is—thank God for my race partner.

We finished the race in in two hours, twenty minutes. In true Irish style, we celebrated with soup and brown bread at the finish.

Connemara Half-Marathon

I am heading back to the states in a few weeks for a summer user experience internship, but I will be back in Dublin in September for one more semester. And I am so happy that I will be, as I know I have only scratched the surface of Ireland.

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Glenstal Abbey

A few weeks ago, some of our Mitchell class visited Glenstal Abbey, a Benedictine monastery in County Limerick. I had been looking forward to this trip all year. One of my college professors had once told me a story about a pilgrimage you can do at a monastery on a small Irish island, where you have to take a vow of silence and can only walk around on your knees while you’re on the island. For whatever reason – maybe my very secular upbringing – that story is vividly imprinted in my mind as an awe-inspiring act of faith, and all monasteries in Ireland have since been associated with that awe.

At Glenstal, we received a tour of the Abbey grounds from Brother Anthony, who was incredibly knowledgeable about the many historic trees on the Abbey’s grounds, and we met with Lord Abbot Mark Patrick Hederman, who showed us the Abbey’s icon chapel. The Abbey built the icon chapel after a visionary, a woman in Switzerland, contacted Glenstal to say that she had visions specifying the Abbey needed to build an icon chapel to be opened on April 10, 1988. The icon chapel would house Russian Orthodox icons that had been sold from Russian and former Soviet states, and the chapel would be modeled after the Hagia Sophia. According to the visionary, if the Abbey built the chapel by April 10, something good would happen for both Russia and Ireland.

At the time, the Abbey didn’t have the budget to build an icon chapel, and the monks were wary of taking on such a grand task on the word of a visionary they did not know. Irish artist, James Scanlon, the same artist who created the stained glass for Galway Cathedral, approached the Abbey soon after and reported having a dream that told him the Abbey was constructing an icon chapel for which he would donate artwork. Miraculously, the chapel was completed on April 10, 1988. Lord Abbot Hederman noted that after the chapel’s completion, the Berlin Wall fell in 1989, and exactly ten years later, on April 10, 1998, the Good Friday Agreement was signed.

Perhaps the greatest highlight of my trip was hearing singer, Noirin Ni Rian, sing traditional Irish songs and hymns for us in the Glenstal chapel before Vespers. We met Noirin over tea and scones at the Abbey, and she mentioned that she loved the Mitchell Scholarship because one of her sons had married a Mitchell Scholar. Little did we know that she was the famous Noirin Ni Rian, but after we heard her sing, we knew she had to be a big deal. Her voice was remarkable and touching, and I got goosebumps and started tearing up because her voice was so striking. Noirin provided really interesting context for the songs she would sing us – from why the alternation of Irish and English lyrics in songs were significant to how lamentations figured into the history of Ireland. Noirin had also visited the visionary in Switzerland and learned songs from the visionary’s auditory visions, which she performed for us.

As my year in Ireland draws to a close, I find myself very comfortable and content in my routines. I have my favorite pubs and cafes and am a pro at navigating Dublin’s public transport, but I still have days, where simply walking around the city fills me with wonder. Although my romantic notions about Ireland and Irish monasteries are no more, having experiences like hearing Noirin sing at Glenstal and seeing 15th century icons in a chapel are perhaps even more awe-inspiring because I’ve grown to have a more multidimensional understanding of Ireland’s history and culture that deepens my ability to be awed.

Walking the grounds with Brother Anthony

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Dublin: What To Expect

When I left the United States on my way to Ireland in mid-September 2014, I had no idea what to expect. As an engineer I researched notable sources online and started to piece together just what it would be like to live in Ireland for a year. I tried to prepare myself so that I would not look too much like a tourist for the next 12 months, and so that I would not accidently offend anyone with my somewhat baritone voice that has a tendency to leap across the room in excitement. I researched current events and older, but definitely not forgotten, struggles of the past.

As I started researching current events, the main news story all over the island, was that the Garth Brooks concerts that were scheduled to take place in Dublin… had been CANCELLED! This was a big deal! While I researched the past struggles I found a society steeped in history and holding tightly to their customs and beliefs that had been under fire for so many years.
Before I left for Ireland I was quite nervous. I had never lived in a city of more than 200,000, and I was moving to city centre of Dublin, Ireland. This would be my very first trip to Europe, and I would be living there for 12 months. I did not know what to expect. I honestly did not know… how much I did not know. I was excited to have a great group of 12 men and women accompanying me that had a lot more experience in travels, but at this time I knew them all only briefly. I was worried, but ecstatic!

When I landed I maintained some degree of worry but mostly let the surrealness of it all wash over me. The year has gone by so fast I have had little time to reflect and think about the people I have met, and the conversations that we had. That does not mean I have forgotten them, I have simply stored them in my mind for reference later in life when this crazy year of adventure and exploration will truly be coveted by my elder self. I look back now, with 3 months remaining, in stark disbelief at what I have been blessed to do in the last year. I attempt to grasp just how fortunate I have been, but in that instant the pendulum of time continues to swing and I must move forward as I have assignments due, people to meet and new opportunities to pursue.

What can I say in this short blog? I have been fortunate to live in a “castle”, on a picturesque campus, in the middle of an amazingly beautiful city, that is filled with lovely people. I also have the privilege of meeting 11 extremely intelligent, caring individuals, with whom I was able to share nights out, but also ideas and beliefs. When I arrived in Ireland, I was not sure what to expect, but what I can be sure of, I will walk away with more than a degree, I will leave Ireland with new perspective, life experiences and life lessons.

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All Politics is Local

In the United States we have a saying: ‘All politics is local.’ While this phrase is most famously associated with former Speaker of the House, Tip O’Neill, it more readily applies to the context in Northern Ireland, where local is heightened by the proximity and scope of citizen to government.

This past month, I had the honor and privilege of meeting two local Northern Irish politicians, Thomas Hogg, the Mayor of Antrim and Newtownabbey, and Elisha McCallion, the newly-elected Mayor of the City of Derry.

Mayor Hogg is the DUP Councillor for the district where my school, Ulster University at Jordanstown, is situated.

Every year, the Council hosts a spectacular night out for the UUJ international students, complete with traditional Irish music, plenty of drink and delicious food. Councillors from various parties were in attendance, including the Democratic Unionist Party (DUP), Ulster Unionist Party (UUP), Traditional Unionist Party (TUV), Sinn Féin, the Social Democratic and Labor Party (SDLP), and the Alliance Party. The Pro-Vice Chancellor of my uni, Professor Hugh McKenna, delivered a rousing speech highlighting the many proud achievements of Northern Ireland, among them Game of Thrones, the tractor, chocolate milk, the ejector seat, CPR, Snow Patrol and the Delorean! ‘When you go back home, tell them about your time in Northern Ireland,’ Mr. McKenna smiled.

Later that week, my Economic, Social and Cultural Rights law course took a day trip to the City of Derry, where we met the newly-elected Mayor, Elisha McCallion. As we soaked in the history of the Derry Guildhall, Mayor McCallion explained the changes that had befallen the council, and their implications on local politics.

Back in 1973, Northern Ireland was divided into 26 districts, each with an average population of 65,000. Prior to that, there had been a whopping 73 local authorities serving a population of approximately one and a half million people in six counties. This duplicative and complex system was replaced during the Troubles, at which time all local authorities were abolished in favor of 26 single-tier district councils that had very limited powers.

In June 2002, the Northern Ireland Executive called for a review of public administration, which recommended combining the 26 councils into 11 super-councils. This endeavor aimed to give each council more power to shape local politics and drive economic development. Today, super-councils have control over planning, roads, housing, community development, local economic development and tourism.

Despite their expanded powers, these new super-councils also have much larger catchment areas, placing the ‘local authority’ further away from the citizens. With less than a month in office, Mayor McCallion demonstrated a keen sensitivity to this challenge, acknowledging that her dominion now encompassed both Derry and Strabane, two far-removed areas with several hours of travel time between them. But Mayor McCallion was committed to serving all of her constituents despite geographic challenges.

‘This is an exciting time for the council,’ she said, reflecting on the changes she has overseen during her service in city council. Indeed, these reforms have been referred to by some as ‘the biggest change in local democracy in more than 40 years.’

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The Decision to Study Abroad

When first deciding to take a year to study abroad, instead of going straight into a PhD program, I was…nervous. There was endless worrying about whether I was making the “right” decision. How would the year affect my career plans? Would I even want to stick with the same PhD program upon my return to the USA? Will I like living in another country, and how will I deal with missing holidays at home?

These were all things that I didn’t need to stress over, however I couldn’t help thinking about them. Looking back on my year in Ireland, I can say that taking a year to come here was one of the best decisions I have ever made. Last year, I was completely burnt out. I spent 5 years in engineering constantly pushing myself without taking a break to recharge. This year I did a Master’s Course in Leadership for Sustainable Development. In the first semester, none of my classes were in engineering. I will say that it was nice to not do math all of the time, but writing essays was a lot harder than I thought.  I now have more of an appreciation for my friends majoring in English, because it took me about four months to get the hang of writing essays again. By that time, I had already turned in a couple of assignments and it was clear that, while I was passing all of my classes, I would not be at the top of the class. I know math, but words just seem to escape me.  On one of my essays my teacher wrote that I “write too much like an engineer.”  No matter how hard I worked on an essay, it seemed like I could never score above average. I am an overachiever by nature. Coping with my best not being the best, was hard to learn, but necessary. Luckily I met other international students who were also adjusting to the new education system.

Without my international friends I do not think I would have enjoyed my year here, as much as I have. Cooking parties, traveling for the holidays, movie nights, gym workouts and walking aimlessly around the city have made this a fantastic experience.  I have had the opportunity to learn about other cultures, which I could not get by staying in the USA. Through this I have come to understand the truth and fiction behind some of the stereotypes that surround different countries. Being away from home is hard, but the people I have met have made it a lot easier than I expected. It also helps that I have great friends that come and visit me from time to time.

Now that the time is approaching to leave Ireland, I am getting a little sad, but I am excited to start the next chapter of my life. I will miss the people I have met here, and I am so happy I did not give into my fears about studying abroad. This year has been an amazing experience.

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Reflecting on the year

It is hard to believe that my Mitchell year is already coming to a close. In less than a month I will leave Dublin, enjoy a brief respite in my childhood home in Cincinnati, OH—and then fly to Washington, D.C. to work for Senator Portman’s General Counsel this summer in my first legal internship. More or less, I’ll be getting back into the professional swing of things. While I very much look forward to this change of pace, I could not have asked for a better year of preparation. I feel, as I type this, rejuvenated, optimistic, and ready for what’s to come—the result of a refreshing year in a beautiful city.
Without a doubt this has been an incredibly educational year—even more so than I had already expected. The master’s program I was enrolled in (MSc Program in Politics and Public Policy at TCD) was very well run and quite enriching. I am currently beginning work on my dissertation, due in August, that will examine constitutional amendment structures and their impact on constitutional longevity (not as complicated as it sounds). Above all, my program was valuable insofar as it introduced me to incredible people from across the spectrum of political viewpoints and nationalities. Just last night I engaged in a normative discussion concerning how “feminism” and “discrimination” should best be defined, over burritos at Pablo Picante (the best burrito in all of Dublin, if I haven’t already mentioned this in a blog post). This is just one example of numerous conversations that have allowed me to grow intellectually as a person.
In addition, when I look back on my experiences of the last few months, the time I spent traveling will also resonate vividly. In August I had the fortune to travel to Spain to walk El Camino de Santiago before beginning my studies in Dublin. Such an adventure provided me great grounding from which to begin the year. In September I visited Germany with two Mitchell friends to celebrate Oktoberfest—forging friendships that have grown as the year progressed. In London and Oxford I connected with several other American scholars abroad. And over the last few months I have visited six countries I had never before visited—Turkey, Italy, Hungary, the Czech Republic, India, and Morocco (not to mention this also encompasses two continents I’d never before visited—Asia and Africa).
I think, coming away from this year, I can further reify the belief that two of the single most fun ways to become a better person are to 1. Meet and engage with diverse people, and 2. Travel (which oftentimes encompasses the first). This, in a nutshell, was my Mitchell year, and how it encouraged me to grow. It provided me the opportunity to achieve both these goals to an extremely high extent.
The sun is setting on my time in Dublin—at least for now. But I hope to return soon, and without hesitation will jump at any opportunity to do so in the future. In closing, I will end with as simple of a summary statement as I can—this year was fun, educational, and I grew as a person. It is an opportunity for which I am incredibly grateful.
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A Journey and Finale

A dissertation.  Those who are writing one typically go through various stages. Love it. Hate it. Rewrite it. Edit it. Despite the late nights and revisions, the final product is rewarding. The writer has reached the mountaintop. While I am not there yet, my thesis has taken some surprising turns.

When I first came to Maynooth, I was determined to write a dissertation on education policy in Ireland. Talking with a school center director, parents, a principal, and some Department of Education and Skills members, I began formulating a thesis topic. A few questions that were evident: how were schools recovering from the austerity measures? Were parents actively engaged in primary schools? How did principals view the support of Department of Education and Skills aid during the recession? These questions need answers and ultimately, would have hopefully provided some ideas for policy makers and many stakeholders.

However, my research changed.

In early January, after browsing through the literature on conflict resolution in Ireland, there was little to no research on online dispute resolution. A fairly new field, the integration of information technology and resolving conflicts has seen limited research and application in North America. The European Union, this year, is starting to require e-commerce regulations to its member states. Wondering how this would impact Ireland and what practitioners generally thought of online dispute resolution, I wanted to learn more. Talking with others in the field and my adviser, I opted for this route.

Sending an online survey to over 800 practitioners of dispute resolution in Ireland and Northern Ireland, the response rate was exceedingly good: over 100 people participated.  Questions ranged from if they had ever used the technology for resolving conflicts to if there was any value in using it. As one of the first studies conducted on online dispute resolution in Ireland, the results are promising. Yet the emails of people writing back asking to learn more and wanting to see the results was most encouraging. A genuine interest of understanding online dispute resolution came from practitioners all across the Island.

So, my research came to life.

A few months ago, I was approached by the Kennedy Institute for Conflict Intervention to host an event on online dispute resolution in late June of this year. Held right on Merrion Square, the first seminar dedicated to online dispute resolution in Ireland will take place with experts speaking from the United States and Ireland. Daniel Rainey and Dr. Leah Wing from the United States will present along with Brian Hutchinson and Dr. Deirdre Curran from Ireland.

For me, this event symbolizes what this Mitchell year has been about: bringing America and Ireland together for the better.

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Marathon in Belfast

I’ve just made a serious mistake. It’s one that I’ll regret, increasingly, over the next four and a half weeks, before regretting it at maximum intensity for several hours on the 4th of May. Quite possibly, I will regret it for some days after that, as I struggle to stand, walk, or otherwise make use of my legs.

What exactly have I done? I’ve signed up for the Belfast City Marathon — after training for exactly one week.

Training is actually something of an overstatement. I’ve gone on three runs, two of which were on the treadmill and lasted in the neighborhood of 20 minutes. One ended when I felt in danger of passing out.

In my defense, I have been on one honest-to-goodness outdoor run. That took me up the Shankill Road, down along the peace wall that still divides Catholic and Protestant West Belfast, and back up the Falls Road past the Sinn Fein headquarters. Never have I felt so out of place in my white stretchy shorts.

So how much trouble am I in? Well, my father, who runs these things on a more or less regular basis, recommends beginning a training regimen roughly six months in advance. Since that’s clearly out of the question, I asked whether he could recommend a more abbreviated preparation plan. “There’s basically no point in training at this point,” he said, “since you’re not going to get in shape in four and a half weeks.”

This is not the first time I’ve entered a marathon utterly unprepared, and my dad felt the need to remind me what happened the last time around: “You couldn’t run for years.”

On a scale of 1-10, he rated the stupidity of this plan a “solid 10.”

Great encouragement, dad. Thanks. Just what I needed before I go run 26.2 miles, almost certainly in the rain, with zero training under my belt.

At least I won’t be alone in my follies, as I’ve enlisted a fellow Mitchell Scholar in this foolhardy endeavor. The idea is to get out and running in the Northern Irish countryside now that the weather is somewhat improved. We may not have much time to get in shape, but we’ve got plenty of time to enjoy the sunshine (such as it is in Northern Ireland).

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Winning Hearts and Minds

I love to eat. The sheer joy of sinking my teeth into steaming hot, homemade chicken enchiladas, or the mouth-watering sensation of biting into crispy corn tortilla chips dipped into fresh ceviche brings an indescribable happiness to my heart, rivaled only by my love for family and my morbidly obese cat, Marley.

And apparently I’m not alone. It turns out that people throughout the world also love to eat, especially the world’s biggest movers and shakers. Recognizing the power of food in shaping international trade and politics, governments across the globe have begun to invest in ‘culinary diplomacy,’ a tactic defined by my friend and resident expert, Sam Chapple-Sokol, as ‘the use of food and cuisine as instruments to create cross-cultural understanding in the hopes of improving interactions and cooperation.’ It reflects a recognition that food can literally bring people to the table.

Culinary diplomacy is nothing new. From the Silk Road to the French Revolution, the meals served to dignitaries, Heads of State and military leaders have often doubled as instruments for negotiations, precursors to peace, or harbingers of war. Even today, the amount of time, effort, preparation and money that goes into conceptualizing and serving a Head of State is astounding. For instance, a White House chef was once tasked with crafting a menu for visiting Japanese dignitaries. Rather than highlighting American cuisine or attempting to cook a traditional Japanese meal, the chef sought to coalesce elements from both cultures in one dish. By infusing Idaho russet potatoes with a wasabi filling, the chef subtly demonstrated respect for guests of honor and their homeland while also showcasing an American dinner staple. This is culinary diplomacy in action.

But not everyone is a Head of State boasting a sophisticated palate. For most people in the world today, food is a necessity of life, not a medium of diplomatic strategery. Yet breaking bread remains a powerful tool for cultural exchange and mutual understanding regardless of one’s income bracket or background. When we share a meal with others we inadvertently let our guards down and accept the vulnerability that accompanies the visceral act of eating. The use of food as a means of cultural exchange at the grassroots, people-to-people level is what I, and other scholars, refer to as gastrodiplomacy.

Winning the hearts and minds of people through their tummies is a popular sentiment in Ireland. Although unbeknownst to most, many Irish people engage in gastrodiplomacy each and every day. At Ulster University, where I study conflict and human rights law, I introduced the theory behind the concept of gastrodiplomacy to many of my friends in the international student department as well as local Irish students. It didn’t take much to sell the idea of a club that brings friends together over food. Together we founded the university’s first ‘Gastrodiplomacy Society’ last Fall and to date, we have hosted events that have exposed students to cuisine from countries like Romania, Poland, Germany, Brazil, the United States, India, and even Finland! For Mardi Gras, we asked students to bring the foods they typically eat on Fat Tuesday or for Carnival. Despite being a new society, we had over 50 people at our event!

In Northern Ireland, discussing the legacy of the Troubles is fraught with difficulties. This is still a country healing from the ravages of conflict, with the Commission for Victims and Survivors recently releasing a report that an estimated 500,000 people were directly affected by the thirty-years of brutal violence. In a country with 1.8 million people, that’s a significant segment of the population! However, during my short time here I have been able to forge friendships and engage in honest dialogue with individuals from all ends of the political and social spectrum, mostly because, well, I like to eat. Sharing a drink of whiskey with PSNI officers at a pub in Carrickfergus and striking up a conversation with the local baker at Central Station who feeds my sausage roll addiction has taught me more about Irish society than any lecture, conference or reading assignment. By taking the time to sit down for a meal with a friend’s family in Draperstown after feeding their newborn sheep and baby calves, I gained a new appreciation for the phrase ‘from farm to fork.’ Yet it has been precisely during such moments — while indulging in a savory roast beef from a cow raised right on their farm! — that I truly gained insight into the values and lived experiences of people in rural Northern Ireland. Over these meals, stories of the past seamlessly flow into the present, provoking greater understanding, opportunities for healing and mutual trust. This is the power (and beauty) of gastrodiplomacy!

Talk about getting a flavor for a country!

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Teaching the World

Conflict comes in every form at every level of society. Sometimes it is productive or violent, sometimes political or personal. The Good Friday Agreement forged in 1998 heralds respect from various nations as not only sustaining peace, but also its restorative, ongoing process. Just a few weeks ago, my eyes were opened to how Ireland is teaching the world to both broker peace and sustain it.

The Shades Negotiation Program gathers bright and budding Israeli and Palestinian leaders to provide negotiation and peace building skills. Through their journey of gaining a greater understanding of conflict resolution, they were able to visit Ireland and Northern Ireland. Here they gained an inside view of how the peace process took place and continues to unfold. When the group travelled to Ireland, I joined them in their meetings and discussions.

“The best way to get peace anywhere,” said one of the panelists “is to have the leaders on a deserted island sign an agreement that they must stay there until the peace agreement works,” I overheard. A chorus of laughter followed but an important takeaway came from this: a reoccurring theme of constant participation in negotiations and renewing commitments. This stood out to many of the program participants. Notably, the recent Stormont House Agreement reached at the end of 2014 demonstrates the commitment of all parties to stay involved and maintain peace.

The role of media in dealing with high-level conflict became a popular topic of conversation. A general consensus of limiting media’s knowledge and awareness of specific points within the process would evade unproductive outside forces and keep parties laser-focused on their goals. While some arguments are compelling: that they can bring parties to the table; reality-test ideas that could fail to win popular approval, and even push parties to reach a conclusion, the media’s role had too many potential issues.

This was just a taste of what panellists, participants and organizers discussed. Gleaning from the lessons learned of Ireland’s involvement in the Good Friday Agreement, many found the conversation as enlightening but inspiring. Ireland’s conflict is unique in many ways but in some ways the lessons are universal. All parties at the table had to be willing to work for peace. The peace agreement was not the end game, implementation and sustainability had to be the conclusion. Limited media interaction during the peace talks. These concepts are not, and should not, but be contained to this Island.

The Israeli-Palestine conflict is one of many ongoing conflicts across the globe that could find great value from ongoing training in problem-solving negotiations.  Ireland should continue to export these important ideas not just for regional prosperity, but for the world.

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Learning to Speak Like a Local, Norn Ireland Edition

Moving to Belfast, I reckoned, would involve some culture shock. More potatoes, more rain, more swearing. But it couldn’t be that different. After all, in Northern Ireland, they still spoke English. It wasn’t like I would have to master an entire new language along with a set of new cultural rituals (Note: always, always buy your round at the pub. If you don’t, you may be described using all sorts of colorful words). But after spending a few months with folks from all across Northern Ireland, I still find myself needing to ask for translations on almost a daily basis. In Northern Ireland – read Norn Ireland – my native tongue has become unfamiliar, foreign, ready to trip me up with counterintuitive pronunciations, local slang, and nonsensical colloquial phrases.

The only Irish words I’ve picked up so far have been “slainte” and “saiorse,” which mean “cheers” and “freedom,” respectively. But my education in the finer points of the Northern Irish “English” is proceeding apace. What I have learned thus far: Crisps are chips, and chips are French Fries but fatter. Unless the crisps are made of corn and get along well with guacamole; in that case, you can also refer to them as chips. Never tell someone that you like his pants. Or otherwise infer that you wish it were warm enough to not wear pants. Or spend a good ten minutes gushing about your new softshell, water resistant pants and how great they are for rock climbing. Over here, pants means underwear. Everything we would consider to be pants goes instead under the name of “trousers.” Asking, “What’s the craic?” or “How’s the craic?” does not signify that you are curious about someone’s cocaine habit. Craic: n. fun, a good time, a good show. This often times can be substituted with “banter.” A wee dander has nothing to do with your scalp, but instead involves setting off with friends for a walk on the rare sunny afternoon. Going for a dander can entail having the craic, but not necessarily so. Use “wee” whenever possible. If the sentence calls for an adjective, then “wee” is a viable option. It has little to no correlation to physical size.

Out on Giants Causeway for a wee dander

And then I have had to fine-tune my pronunciation. During my first few weeks, the Belfast accent left me smiling and nodding my head in a complete state of incomprehension. But I have since learned that vowels are shorter here; whole syllables can be swallowed and go unmissed. A shower, with its two-beat extension, is boiled down to the monosyllabic “shour.” The same goes with power (“pour”), hair (“herr”), and the worst offender, mirror (“meer”). Now when I try to assess whether someone is from here, I usually ask them to say the phrase, “power shower.” Works like a charm. There are the usual culprits: tomato and tomato, banana and banana. All of my climbing friends think it is hilarious when I pronounce route as if it rhymed with “out.” (Which it does.) They say root.

Colloquial phrases still leave me at a loss. When someone is falling-down drunk, you can describe him as “steaming.” Or as a steaming demon, if you make sure to say those two words as if they rhyme. To be angry is to be raging. Perhaps at the antics of your steaming friend. When folks ask, “Is that you?” they are not trying to identify you. Yes, it is you. What they really want to know is, are you done with your pint or your chip?

There is much still for me to learn. Just a few days ago, I was informed by a kind soul to avoid using the word “spunky” over here, for reasons that I will not lay out in this publicly available blog post. And I can only hope that the highway goes both ways and that my American phrases are wearing off on my friends in Norn Ireland. At the moment, my biggest project is to convert them to the functionality of the “y’all.” Thus far, only my friend Conor is showing much enthusiasm for it. Unfortunately, he keeps trying to use it in place of the singular “you” form, which causes me all sorts of headaches. But so far, I find myself just enjoying the exchange process. It’s been great craic.

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Yoga in The Burren

A few weekends ago I traveled with Molly to The Burren in County Clare, “out Wesht” as my Irish friends would say, for a weekend yoga retreat. The Burren is a stunning landscape made up of great sheets of limestone that lead to staggering cliffs and deep turquoise water of the Atlantic Ocean. The nearby Cliffs of Moher were featured famously as the “Cliffs of Insanity” in The Princess Bride and more recently in Harry Potter films. Growing up around Philadelphia, my only experiences with the ocean were at the Jersey shore, so I always thought the Atlantic Ocean was supposed to be a murky green-brown. Now, after seeing the Irish coast, I know that whatever New Jersey has done to the water is not normal, and I am doubly grateful for the time I get to spend by the water in Ireland.

The local farmers use the abundance of easily accessible rock to build stone walls around their fields and houses, and many of the walls have been standing for decades upon decades because the natural gaps between the rocks in the walls let the strong Irish winds pass through the walls of piled rock, instead of toppling them. During the Great Famine, the locals were hired to build roads out of the rock in exchange for food. Now known as “famine roads,” the roads and stone walls crisscross the hills of The Burren, building a visible history of the region into the landscape.

Molly and I had to take a bus, two trains and a taxi to reach the remote location of the yoga retreat, and one of our connections was in the small town of Gort. As I waited for Molly to arrive on the train after mine, I wandered into a lovely small café on the town square and had time to read a little bit about Gort, which provided an interesting snapshot of Irish history. Lady Gregory used to own a house a short distance outside of Gort, and WB Yeats would often travel to Gort to visit her. Gort and the rest of County Clare was hit especially hard by The Famine, losing almost 25% of its population to deaths and emigration. Now, Gort is home to a large Brazilian population that immigrated over for job opportunities in the area, and a Brazilian family owned the café I stopped in.

I started this new semester with a resolution to be more purposeful about how I spent my time in order to “make the most” out of my remaining months in Ireland. I enlisted for a slew of new commitments – tutoring an undergraduate public health class, volunteering with an immigrant and refugee mental health organization, auditing English classes, and planning more travels around Ireland and Europe. The past few months have flown by with my busier schedule, and I was shocked to realize that I only have five more weeks of classes before exams and full-time work on my dissertation begin. The retreat was a useful checkpoint to reflect on how I really wanted to “make the most” out of this year. It reminded me of the importance of slowing down and smelling the roses and how much I can still learn from living and studying in Ireland. Before the retreat, I was busying myself with filling my days with activities and travel plans, but now, I’m content to stay in Dublin, spend more time with friends in cozy cafes and pubs in the city, and put down roots more firmly in the country that’s now my home.

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