Holidays Abroad

Year after year, I hop on a plane and make my way home for Christmas. I look forward to this journey and the holiday season, its familiar traditions, and time spent with family. This year, rather than go home, I tried something very different that revealed to me a Christmas spent in a strange, even desolate place can be a wonder of its own.

I met four of my oldest friends in Mijas, a picturesque, white-washed Spanish village tucked in the hills overlooking the Costa del Sol of Andalucia. We trekked to the port city of Tangier, Morocco, where we were welcomed, or rather hounded, by locals who, in anticipation of the ferry’s arrival, had staked out the pier to solicit the wide-eyed tourists.

After a few mishaps, we settled in our cabin on a night train venturing west to Marrakech. When we first set foot in the Marrakech Souks, it was as if we had been hoisted back in time. The scene was colorful and chaotic – a labyrinth of paths and shops, craftsmen carving wood trinkets, cajoling salesmen, pungent spices, bright scarves, elaborate lamps, and hundreds of motorbikes whizzing past. In the evenings, we retreated to our Riad, a traditional Moroccan house built around an interior courtyard, where we relaxed with PiTc and Hassan, our comical 20-year-old hosts responsible for managing the Riad.

Christmas in Morocco would never feel like Christmas in the States, so we decided to do something entirely different. After enduring a long and winding car ride through the Atlas Mountains and its countless switchbacks, we arrived in the Sahara on Christmas Eve just as the sun started to set.  Our Berber hosts led us by camel to our campsite, where we ate tagine and drank mint tea by the fire with our new Brazilian friend, Rosana.

The entire experience was eerily reminiscent of the first Christmas. And though I missed being at home with my family, there was something peaceful, spiritual even, about spending Christmas in the Sahara without a street lamp in sight beneath stars that shone brighter than I’d ever witnessed.

Our travels continued in Granada and Seville, concluding in Madrid on New Year’s Eve. There I ate “the twelve grapes of luck” in the Puerta del Sol as the clock ticked twelve and another year began.  I’m back in Ireland now writing papers galore. School, work, and my usual routine have resumed, but I’m grateful for memorable travels and looking forward to new adventures in 2014.

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Emerald Isle; Sapphire Sea?

People are drawn to visit Ireland for many reasons: to see the rolling green hills of its countryside; to explore the vibrant arts, music (and pub) scene; or to connect with their family history.  Relatively few, I expect, come to scuba dive in its decidedly non-tropical waters.  It was to my surprise, then, to learn that Ireland actually has one of best diving scenes in Europe.

For obvious reasons, the diving in Ireland is quite different from your typical Thai or Caribbean tropical fare, where most people (myself included) get their start.  The waters are colder, and the stormy weather can stir up some fierce currents.  But across the island, there are a number of remarkable dive sites with a spectrum of marine life (even the occasional seal or dolphin) and historical wrecks (a German U-boat off County Cork; the Alastor in Strangford Lough in County Down).

I only just learned to dive myself this past summer (and in much warmer waters), and it was really an incredible experience.  I probably spent too much time watching Star Wars movies as a kid and dreaming of flying around in outer space, and diving strikes me as probably the closest thing on Earth to that experience.  Maintaining neutral buoyancy (such that you neither sink to the ocean floor nor rise to the surface, but rather are suspended at your target depth) has a feel of zero-gravity levitation to it, and observing the hum of aquatic life around an ocean reef has a real sense of observing an alien world.

So I have been keen to get diving in Ireland.  I’ve joined DUSAC (the Dublin University Sub-Aqua Club) here at Trinity, and I’ve been attending a series of build my certification towards the next level (I’m currently an ‘ocean diver’, and I’m working towards a ‘sports diver’ certification).  The dive season is Ireland is not year round – the main season runs from April to October – so I unfortunately haven’t been able to make it into Irish waters just yet.  I was slated for a November trip to County Cork, but a big storm put an end to that.

In the meantime, I have had to look elsewhere to get my cold-water diving kicks in.  I traveled to Iceland for a week with my girlfriend Blaire over the holiday, and we went diving at Silfra.  Silfra is a rift in a lake in the þingvellir National Park that is part of the boundary at which the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are slowly drifting apart.  The water is frigid (generally between 2 and 4 degrees Celsius) so the dive requires a drysuit, but the water is relatively calm and crystal clear (with visibility over 100 meters), allowing incredible views of some really unique geological structures.  And the feeling of surfacing at the end of the dive into falling snow was pretty surreal – it made me feel like a penguin as I waddled back to the jeep in my jet-black drysuit.

In the Silfra rift

As the new year unfolds and the weather warms, I’m excited to explore what the Irish waters are hiding.  Even without penguins or seals, it should make for a good adventure.

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Wait, Finals Come AFTER Break?!

As I start to write this, it’s around 3 AM. The National Championship game is on in the background, and I’m once more reminded that Bama did not make it to Pasadena this year (sniff sniff, wipes tear). Football woes aside, both professional and collegiate, the year is going swimmingly so far – doctoral program applications were completed, projects were submitted, culture and linguistic quirks were absorbed, trips were taken. Thanksgiving weekend was spent in Dublin, enjoying the company of other scholars and friends of the program. This was quickly followed by a weekend jaunt to Belgium to explore Brussels, Bruges, and Ghent. I cannot begin to tell you how fabulous the chocolate was; let’s just say the treats I bought as gifts may not make it back to the States.

Christmas was spent in picturesque Galway with Tom’s wonderful family, who were gracious enough to host Marian and me, as we could not make it back to the States. We soaked in plenty of the beautiful Irish countryside on our long, long bus trips from Belfast to Dublin to Galway and back again. New Year’s, or should I say Hogmanay, was occupied with a trip to Scotland to see the Highlands, Glasgow and Edinburgh. Fireworks with a backdrop of a medieval castle and thousands of Scots singing Auld Lang Syne in its native dialect was a fabulous way to welcome in the new year. I certainly have been racking up the miles and passport stamps. I cannot wait to go hillwalking in the summer, both here in Ireland and hopefully in Scotland as well. Yes indeed, everything was going swimmingly – or so I thought until this stretch of chaos hit.

The beautiful and COLD Western Highlands of ScotlandThe beautiful (and COLD) Western Highlands of Scotland

One of the stranger aspects, to this American at least, about Queen’s is that final examinations for the semester take place after the winter break period. As one professor put it, this gives us more time to revise, but as another said (who obviously understands the student mind better), it’s clearly a plot to torment us. No matter what the reason, it definitely gives students something to bond over as we launch into a campaign of revision and term paper writing in the aftermath of the holidays. Studying with my classmates has truly been a cultural enlightenment. We have compared so many things, from drinks to education systems, and for the first time in my life I miss getting grades on homework. I’ve been corrected on my pronunciation of many words, though we are still fighting over “aluminum” versus “aluminium” (I refuse to give in on that one). The imperial system of units has thoroughly been taken to task, as has my calculator for some odd reason. Apparently, no one uses TI-83s in this part of the world.

But what I’ve enjoyed most has been the wonderful contrasting senses of humor and national pride. Americans, in the eyes of the Irish, have a tendency to be over-dramatic, especially when it comes to patriotic things. Whereas on this side of the ocean, self-deprecatory remarks about one’s country are the norm, but there is a fierce pride hidden beneath the surface. To some extent, this sort of humor reaches beyond a national level into personal interaction. Sarcasm and light jabs are not meant to hurt, but are simply a different way of bonding.  You know that you are building friendships when you can both give and take those remarks with a laugh. And after this crazy stretch of final exams, I am certainly going to be in need of many laugh and some good craic.

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Holidays in My New Home Away from Home

Coming into this year, one of the things that excited me most about living abroad was getting to experience holidays from a non-American worldview. Ireland certainly did not disappoint. Christmas markets play a huge role in the holiday season in Continental Europe, and the city of Galway brings a bit of the festivities to Eyre Square every December. It seemed like the entire city converged on the Square to celebrate the opening of the Galway Continental Christmas Market. Even the Taoiseach made an appearance at the tree lighting ceremony.

Decorations lit Shop Street, guiding pedestrians to the market, while a huge windmill, carousel, and smells of smoked sausage, hot chocolate, and fresh chimney cakes welcomed visitors. The Paulaner tent became my class’s social spot for the month, with hourly group renditions The Pogues’ “Fairytale of New York” serving as the season’s soundtrack.

Fortunately, I have wonderful classmates who have helped damped any homesickness I might have. The late-night football watching or ice skating sessions with them have made me feel like a true member of the community. But the holiday season has a way of making you miss your friends and family back home. Fortunately, my parents decided to make their first trip outside of the U.S. to visit this Christmas. After a brief stay in Dublin, we flew to Vienna and Budapest to get a firsthand experience of Christmas on the mainland.

Central European Christmas markets certainly do not disappoint. Craft vendors, food carts, and musicians fill entire city blocks and cathedral common areas. By far, the most difficult aspect of visiting one of the enormous markets was deciding whether I wanted a käsekrainer or goulash and trying to remind myself to save room for apple strudel or kürtőskalács. Aside from the markets, we had a wonderful time visiting Schonbrunn Palace, riding Das Wiener Risenrad, getting a bird’s eye view of the city from the towers of St. Stephen’s Cathedral, and cruising along the Danube River.

After getting our fill of Central Europe and watching my father try to understand the conversion rate between U.S. Dollars and Hungarian Forint, we made our way back to Galway, where gale-force winds and torrential downpours helped us ring in the holiday season. Everything shuts down in Ireland from Christmas to St. Stephen’s Day, so we stocked up on food and made our own homemade Christmas dinner at my apartment. Sarah and Marian made the trip from Belfast to celebrate with us, giving us a quality Christmas with my traditional family and my new Mitchell family. Granted, the combination of Christmas market food and my mom’s dinner completely wrecked any progress I managed to make at the gym this semester, but at the end of the day, I’d consider it a successful holiday.

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Wading Into Ireland

My first fish in Ireland - a Dodder River brown trout

I emerged from the Glenomena dormitory into the grey Dublin afternoon. The air was crisp for a late September day. The sky looked as it often does here, foreboding and on the verge of a downpour. Sporting a waterproof backpack with a pair of waders and boots buried within and a fly fishing rod strapped to the side, I excitedly marched off the University College Dublin campus and up Stillorgan road.

Thirty minutes later, I was standing on a bridge overlooking the Dodder River searching for the subtle flash of a fish tail or the sly sip of a feeding trout on the river’s surface. I quickly threw on my gear, assembled my fishing rod, and stepped into the stream’s cold, clear water. It had been more than a month since I had last experienced the euphoria of immersing myself into a trout stream and for the first time since arriving in Dublin twenty-seven days earlier, I felt at home.

Prior to hopping on an Aer Lingus flight bound for Dublin, I spent the previous six months driving 28,220 miles across the United States fly fishing and writing about threats to wild fish populations.  After six months of living on the road, I had grown accustomed to sleeping in my car or tent, not showering or shaving, and having the freedom to fish or do whatever I wanted whenever I wanted. It was a far cry from my former life as a suit and tie wearing Senior Legislative Assistant on Capitol Hill and a much needed reprieve.

Another Dodder River brown trout

Seven days after ending that journey, I found myself on an entirely different journey in a very different environment. I had traded in my tent for a dorm room, my car for a bicycle, and my fly fishing stories for papers on participatory planning and genetic resources.  It was a surreal transition and one that has taken a little adjusting.

But on that dreary September afternoon, I was reminded of what had inspired me to move to Ireland to pursue a Master’s degree in environmental resource management. The Dodder is a far cry from the famed rivers I fished in Alaska, British Columbia, and nearly every state in the American West. The environs are far less sublime, and the fish are not the trophy-sized trout that consume every fly fisherman’s dreams. However, in many regards these trout and this river are far more spectacular.

Urban trout don’t really exist in the United States, save for in a few idyllic, wealthy towns scattered across the country. Many urban rivers once hosted wild trout populations, but pollution, dams, and a myriad of other environmental missteps have decimated these rivers and their fish populations. My former homewater in Washington D.C., Rock Creek, is such a river. However, Ireland is chock-full of urban rivers that boast healthy runs of Atlantic salmon and sea trout as well as robust populations of resident, native brown trout.

The abundance of urban salmonid rivers in Ireland is a direct result of the country’s successful efforts to mitigate pollution and properly manage these invaluable water resources. It is proof positive that it is possible to have high water quality in bustling cities with large populations. There are some fascinating lessons to be learned here about more effective water management practices and many beautiful fish to be caught. I can’t wait to spend the next year stalking and studying these amazing rivers.

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Coming back to Cork

My program got off to a good start.  All of us in the MA in composition were told to bring our instruments for the first day of class.  When we arrived, the course coordinator told us we wouldn’t be doing much talking that day; instead, we’d start with a musical introduction.  For the better part of two hours we improvised together in an almost completely unstructured way.  Though it felt a bit like being thrown in the deep end—I’ve done some group improvisation before, but never with all strangers or without some “games” to start things off—I left feeling excited about the focus on the music that the start to the course demonstrated.  My excitement has definitely been borne out by my classes thus far.  There is a real attention to sound and willingness to get into the nitty-gritty of how music is put together that I truly appreciate about this program.  This is an overgeneralization, but I sometimes feel that high-level composition programs in the U.S. can be a little hesitant to get really hands-on for fear of seeming too “basic.”  Stressing things like process or long-range structure is useful, of course, but I think there’s also a huge amount to be learned from saying “Hey, guys, what would you expect the change in sound to be if we switched the clarinet and the piano in this chord?  Okay, let’s try it.”  So I’m very grateful for the UCC professors’ willingness to let us experiment, to make sure we all understand exactly what’s going on mathematically with a particular rhythm, to get into the nooks and crannies of the music so that we can learn how to make it better.  I can’t wait to see how my music changes after a year here.

And yet…even with such a solid beginning to my Mitchell year, if I had tried to sit down and reflect on all this a couple weeks ago I’m sure I would have found it pretty difficult.   My first two months in Cork have felt like a bit of a whirlwind.  This week my classmates and I had to turn in a 7,500 word essay, play pieces we had written entirely out of a single chord, and defend our compositional interests and portfolio proposals in front of all the department’s postgrads and several professors.  When I got back from class on Thursday, I had a two-line e-mail: “It’s over!  Who’s up for a drink later?”  When we got to the pub that night, though, we all agreed that we had no idea exactly what was over.  Our first tough week?  Our first crack at a slew of new ideas?  These first two months in Cork have felt the same: I’ve done, seen, and learned a lot, but it’s a bit hard to say just what.

Last weekend, though, I had the interesting and slightly dizzying experience of flying back to the U.S. for a couple days, and I think it put me in a position to see my time in Cork thus far in in a somewhat clearer light.   The Cornell Chorus, Cornell University’s women’s choir, had commissioned me to write a piece this summer for their “No Flowers, No Whining” commissioning program.  It was a project I felt very strongly about—especially since it’s absolutely true that most women’s choir repertoire tends to fall into either the “Look, a flower!” or “Woe is me, a man has left me” camp—so it was a wonderful surprise when Cornell offered to cover the cost of my flight back to work with the choir and attend the premiere.

It was a great trip.  The chorus sang beautifully and had clearly put a lot of time and care into their preparation; I couldn’t have been more pleased.  My boyfriend, who lives in New York, also took the time to drive the four hours up to Ithaca for the concert.  In many ways it was a perfect weekend.  But it was also a strange one—this was the first time I had ever come back to the U.S. for such a short period of time, knowing I’d be turning right back around and leaving again.  Of course the U.S. is and probably always will be my home, but truth be told, it felt like a visit.  It was surprising how much returning to Cork felt like…well, perhaps not coming home, but definitely coming back to a place for which I have a real affection and am invested in for the long-term.

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Can (and should) Ireland feed itself?

What exactly is “Irish food”, anyways?  Growing up Irish-American in the States, I heard this question a lot from friends, usually around St. Patrick’s Day each year.  And, in fairness, I never really knew how to answer: soda bread, stew, some cheddar cheese maybe?  Since managing to feed myself figured to be one of my first orders of business after arriving in Dublin, I hoped to finally develop a more sophisticated answer this year.

So far I have found the food scene in Dublin to be rather enjoyably complex, both for epicurean and intellectual reasons.  As an aspiring technologist, I think a lot about how progress in technology has transformed the human condition.  While I recognize that this is a complex question that is loaded with nuance, I think that – for the most part – it has made our lives better.  That being said, it seems ironic that as modern information technology has enabled some of us to satisfy our higher needs for learning and for social connection more easily than ever before, environmental degradation threatens our most basic needs for clean air, clean water, and secure access to food.

I was interested, then, to learn that some in Ireland aspire for the island become entirely self-sufficient in terms of food production.  I probably should have been less surprised – Ireland knows perhaps better than any country how food security can change the fortunes of a people.  I’ve been visiting the Temple Bar food market in Dublin most Saturdays since I’ve been Ireland, and noticed some advertisements for the campaign in an early visit.  The market is quite a cross-section of local flavors: everything local cheesemongers to Mediterranean produce from The Real Olive Company (the red pepper hummus is great!) to horse steaks on offer from Paddy Jack’s.   I haven’t yet found the stomach for a horse steak, and don’t know that I will – I have recently been trying to adopt  a rule of thumb in which, if I wouldn’t be willing to kill an animal myself, then I shouldn’t eat it.  In theory that translates more or less to not eating any mammals, though in practice I am not the most disciplined about it (good bacon is tough to resist…).

In general, though, I feel more comfortable eating meat in Ireland than I do in the States.  My major moral objection to eating meat is a concern about the quality of life experienced by the livestock rather than an objection to consuming meat itself.  And, at least to my casual observation, factory farming does not seem to have consumed the agricultural sector here, and it is much easier to find meat that is locally sourced and grass-fed.  Still, I have tried stick to vegetarian fare (the paneer dish at Govinda’s is great) or to chicken when possible (the chicken shawarma at Iskanders is another favorite).  And most shops are quite eager to advertise when their food is “100% Irish” – though I would be curious to know what exactly qualifies them for that label (e.g., is beef from cattle raised in Ireland but fed on American corn “100% Irish”).

After two months in Dublin, I’m still not exactly sure what counts as “Irish food”. But I have found food to be quite an interesting thing to think about here (and not just when my stomach is rumbling).

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Irish Pub Talk: An International Education

“You’re American, aren’t you? You’ve got some explainin’ to do.”

The teasing remark came from an old, avuncular Irishman at The Wellington, a corner pub near my apartment that I’ve dubbed my premier pint-sipping, people-watching venue in Dublin. The man then launched into an expressive critique of the revelations about the National Security Agency’s surveillance program. He caught his breath momentarily before expounding on the political dysfunction that had shut down the U.S. government that week. And here I thought I wasn’t living in Washington, D.C., anymore.

I’ve experienced some form of this interaction many times during my first two months living in Dublin. In many ways, the Irish stereotype rings true: Warmth, charm, and humour have been cast my way whether I was gallivanting through Dublin’s bustling streets or strolling through Wicklow’s serene backdrops.  But I’ve been amazed at the Irish’s grasp of world affairs and enlightened by the stimulating conversation. Admittedly, a few pub anecdotes are not enough to make a definitive statement about an entire country, but these interactions have caused me to reflect on the value of cross-cultural exchanges and how they apply to my studies in higher education.

One of the reasons I applied for the Mitchell Scholarship was a desire to live abroad after foregoing that opportunity in my undergraduate years. The benefits of living in another country are incalculable. Leaving our homes and routines can challenge our assumptions and re-frame our world views. And as we return home, these lessons endure – informing our approach to work, learning, parenting, and other aspects of life.

This is one of the reasons why internationalization has emerged as a principal topic in higher education. Globalization and technological innovation have opened borders to students from around the world.  Universities are no longer just competing for students in their regions but also from distant shores.  Although this is largely driven by a wish for more revenue – many international students pay their own way — the impact on higher education is potentially far reaching.

Nevertheless, the percentage of international students at many U.S. universities remains small, meaning most American students’ encounters with them are limited. The out-of-pocket costs of studying abroad can be high and a lack of basic foreign language proficiency deters many U.S. students from pursuing overseas scholarships.

However, with global conversing accelerating over the Internet, there is promise that internationalism can flourish and be better integrated into college classrooms. Massive Open Online Courses seem gimmicky now, but some experts predict this trend will build into a disruptive phenomenon that changes the nature of higher education and keeps shrinking the world of learning. In the future, cultural exchanges will not only occur sporadically in foreign pubs but also daily in classrooms. For now, I think I’ll retreat back to The Wellington.

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A New Lab – European Science vs. American Science

During my senior year of college, I got to know a professor from Cambridge who had recently come to the US, and we had many conversations about the differences between scientific research in the US and Europe. This professor often lamented the lack of creativity in American science, saying that the American way was to throw money at the question instead of designing sophisticated experiments to get at the heart of the problem. I’m not sure that I agree with such a stark dichotomy, but I certainly have been impressed with the creativity of the scientists around me here at Trinity. In many ways, I think the shortage of funding for basic science research here (and in the US, to a lesser extent) has led to novel approaches and techniques in the lab.

Personally, I’ve found my lab work to be very exciting and challenging. I’m working in a largely unexplored field, studying potential uses for adipose-derived stem cells (basically just plain old fat, of the sort that you could obtain from a liposuction procedure) as therapeutic tools for repairing spinal degeneration. Traditionally, scientists have used bone-marrow derived tissues in order to obtain stem cells for treatments, but obtaining bone marrow is a long and painful process that requires inserting a needle inside the hip bone and leads to an extended recovery time. For this reason, there is a growing movement of scientists who are trying to locate other populations of stem cells in the body, one of them being in the fat layers. This is a pretty cool idea because it could one day allow physicians and scientists to easily obtain stem cells from adult patients that could then be used to treat a variety of conditions ranging from Alzheimer’s disease to macular degeneration to some forms of diabetes.

The learning curve in the lab was pretty steep in my case as my background is in cellular neuroscience, so thinking like a tissue engineer doesn’t come intuitively to me. I’m very lucky that the Primary Investigator who runs the lab I am working in is a hands-on supervisor who has provided a lot of guidance and structure to my project, so I don’t feel like I’m treading water.

While I anticipated a challenging and intensive research project in the lab, I didn’t realize coming into the program how demanding my actual coursework would be. I’m in class for nearly 20 hours a week, something I haven’t done since my freshman year of college! However, I’m definitely enjoying the lectures and the new material I’m coming across. The Bioengineering modules I’m enrolled in are geared towards students who will eventually hold industry positions, working to develop novel biomaterials, surgical implants, etc. As an aspiring surgeon, I have always been interested in the biology of disease, but I hadn’t previously given much thought to the materials and devices that surgeons use on a daily basis. My course in Biomaterials has been terrific in this regard because it has forced me to think about the subtleties and nuances of the various materials (titanium, ceramics, etc.) that are commonly used in surgical procedures and how the selection of these materials can lead to drastic changes in recovery time and overall success of the procedure.

As a last note, a lot of the terms that European scientists and physicians use are different from the terms that are used by their American counterparts, which has led to some amusing miscommunications with other members of the lab. I didn’t realize that an operating room is called a “theatre” here, so I spent the first few weeks confused by why my boss was regularly leaving in the middle of the day to watch movies for hours!

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UL Math: Not small Potatoes

I began searching for a meaningful way to summarize the past three extraordinary months at the University of Limerick as a Mitchell Scholar in the way every 22-year old starts an endeavor like that: by logging onto Facebook.

Upon logging in, the first thing I saw was a six minute old post from another Mitchell Scholar: “[I’m] writing a blog post about my experiences in Ireland. . . . What topics would make said blog post interesting for you, gentle reader?”

I quickly piggy backed on his ingenuity with a brief comment: “Friends of Jerry: if you’ve got extra ideas for said blog post, I’m all ears.”

And then we both waited.

Sixteen minutes later, Patricia from Back Home suggested talking about the banter in the pubs.

I have been spending lots of time exploring Limerick’s restaurants and pubs – maybe that’s what I would go with.

Five minutes after that, Chris from Back Home suggested “Potatoes.”

Then the chatter went silent until 30 minutes later Lexington from Back Home ‘liked’ Chris’s “Potatoes.”

Exactly an hour from when I first logged into Facebook, I closed my browser and resolved to find the words and ideas to summarize my first three months in Ireland myself. After all, a dimension of the Mitchell Scholarship is being a cultural ambassador from the United States to Ireland, and in nine months being a cultural envoy from Ireland to the United States. This suggests taking time to reflect on and synthesize experiences to promote Irish-American mutual understanding, and my first contribution to that understanding – however small – should probably not begin with a blog about potatoes. (Sorry Chris.)

Rather, what came to mind is the University of Limerick’s math department, where I’m studying for an MSc Mathematical Modelling. It’s not as riveting as a synopsis of pub banter, but it has genuinely made a strong impression on me.

Since winning the Mitchell Scholarship I talked the university up in my head to being an institution of creatively applied mathematics. It was going to be a bastion of diverse coursework. From tearing through the website before my finalist interview last November, to sporadically poring over it between last November and August, I was enamored. Rarely before had I found required graduate coursework on say mathematical geoscience and mathematical biology in the same department.

To sum it up: the Department published a paper a year and a half ago explaining why the bubbles in Guinness float downwards. (And they are working on a general model for the carbonation in all stout beers now.) The department and I seemed to be a great fit. While it was clearly going to be a year of rigorous academics, it was also going to be a year of watching and listening to understand the dynamics that facilitated such diverse, applied material.

I arrived in Limerick in September, coasted through the academic and cultural honeymoon period from September to mid-October, and now in early November am still fascinated by the department, despite endless problem sets and midterms.

After observing the department for two and a half months, I realize that the culture that motivates the diverse coursework derives in part from a unique modeling consortium the department has with Irish industry. It provides real-world problems for dissertations and coursework, it inhibits possible Ivory Tower-syndrome, and it allows for collaboration within the department and within the Faculty of Science and Engineering. The impacts of the consortium permeate much of what the department does, and it is a model that many American universities could benefit from. It forces not just new applications in mathematics, but drives the innovation of methods as well.

While it’s been a privilege to be a part of the UL math department, I would even add it has been fun. We field a highly competitive soccer team (actually), on which I am their star striker (not actually). The free coffee and tea flows endlessly during late nights and during Department coffee hours on Thursday. We bought a 1L whiskey for our cubicle farm, and we’ve almost trained the takeout pizza guy to drive right up to the correct door of the building. I’m bringing in an American football after midterms, and I’m going to teach the guys how to play (real?) football.  It has been a successful first three months, and I am looking forward to the next nine.

*All the above names are changed for privacy.

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Irish Time

As a creature of habit and an officer in the Navy, I love having schedules and packing them to the seams. My first two months in Ireland challenged all of my instincts. For four years, my life was segmented into 15-minute intervals beginning at 6:00AM and ending at midnight or 1:00AM. Now I am on Irish time, free to roam about my day in a higgledy-piggledy way. Instead of being yelled at for having 5 o’clock shadow, I can sport a beard. Instead of waking up at 5:30 AM, I sleep as late as I want (though I still can’t make it past 7:00AM). Instead of living in the same building as 4,500 other people, I live alone. While I am finding these minor adjustments difficult, there are many aspects of Irish time that I absolutely love.

The first thing I love is that I have an exorbitant amount of free time. Last week I met with three professors. We discussed, respectively, education in the third world, water security, and climate change policy. As I rambled on about the books and articles I have been reading, one of the professors stopped me and said, jokingly, “You are like a kid in a candy store with a hundred euros in your pocket. Life could not be any better.” I have never had this much time to read or the academic freedom to chose a course of study and dissertation topic that really means something to me. Like the jolly kid in the candy store, I have no intention of slowing down and have met some great people who will guide my education.

The second thing that I love is that I can pick up and go somewhere on my extended weekends. However, on the day that I arrived in Ireland, I turned over my passport to get a residency stamp(as a US government employee I needed to apply for diplomatic status). The nice people at the embassy told me it would take four weeks for the stamp to come through, and then I could be on my merry way. As the four-week point approached, I had already toured the entire southern corridor of the Island and enjoyed it thoroughly. At four weeks sans passport, they apologized and said it would take just two more weeks. At six weeks sans passport, I had seen the entire west coast up into Mayo. At seven weeks sans passport I missed the group trip to Barcelona. At eight weeks sans passport, the Mitchell Director, Serena, made a phone call. It was ready the next day. I have been crisscrossing Ireland since August, but I think I am ready to experience some of the other European cultures.

I still find myself getting a haircut every other week, waking up early, and showing up obnoxiously early to class, but all in all the adjustment has not been that difficult. Perhaps my transition back into rigidity will go smoothly, but something tells me that I will be missing Irish time ten months from now.

Posted in Class of 2013, Class of 2014 | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Mayhem, Maps, and Mach Numbers

My journey to Belfast did not begin as smoothly as I would have liked. Sitting on the tarmac for over two hours before takeoff and a broken entertainment screen that was stuck playing Toy Story 3 in Spanish on the 8 hour flight were only the appetizer for the madness of Heathrow. Apparently something about me screams “extra security checks needed.” That, coupled with a maze of terminals and gates that could keep the Minotaur imprisoned, led to me reenacting a scene from the movies – running down the terminal, bags in hand, as they made the final boarding call. And of course, once I managed to board, we sat some more! Well, everyone else sat; I slept.

There has been plenty more mayhem, including a good bit of wandering and exploring, and it’s all been a wonderful adventure. When I was hunting down Carphone Warehouse with the other Mitchell in Belfast, Marian Royston, to find cellphones, we must have stopped to ask directions from people five times. Thanks to the kindness of strangers, we eventually made our way to the shopping center. Together and apart, Marian and I have covered much of the city – we’ve taken in plays at the Lyric (and are planning to see Cats sometime this week at the Opera House), been to St. George’s Market multiple times, sampled all kinds of delicious food and drink at a number of cafes, and wandered down streets and side streets. Thank goodness for Google Maps, it is always a great comfort to have a backup plan in case I wander too far in Belfast, Dublin, or all the other places I have been (and plan to go).

But in the midst of such a different culture and all the fun of exploring new cities and making new friends, a few things have remained constant. The first has been my love for Alabama football. Although I now detest late night starts (thanks time difference), I have yet to miss a game, whether via text, in a pub, SkySports, or internet stream. Thankfully, sport still seems to be a universal topic of discussion. I’ve been involved in many a conversation regarding European vs. American vs. Gaelic football, have preached the gospel of the SEC and the Tide, and am making plans to attend a Belfast Giants ice hockey match. Additionally, I cannot wait until February and March, when Queens Belfast will host the Ashbourne, Sigerson, Fitzgibbon, & O’Connor Cups – an incredible festival of Gaelic games that will definitely be the highlight of the season!

Another unchanging factor in my life is the dearth of females in the field of engineering. As the only woman in both the mechanical and aerospace masters programs, I find myself both missing my close female friends from undergraduate and trying to make the extra effort to reach out to the males in my program (once again, thank you sports!) It has also reminded me of how STEM education and encouragement, or the lack thereof, is a common problem in many western countries, including Northern Ireland. Now that my schedule seems to have taken on some level of consistency, I plan to explore how another culture and education system are attempting to deal with this issue.

The final thing is rather obvious – engineering itself is constant to some extent. Oh sure, the units are different, and I still get a bit freaked out when someone says it’s 6 degrees outside; even in Celsius that’s very, very cold for a Texan like me! But a Mach number is still the same Mach number on this side of the Atlantic, and that is, oddly enough, incredibly comforting. But the other side of engineering that crosses cultures and borders is the fervor we can feel for our areas of expertise.

The Irish are a very passionate people, and the engineers here are no exception.  From the conversations I’ve had in my classes and at meetings, the average working aerospace or mechanical engineer over here could probably tell you far more about the Apollo or Shuttle programs than an everyday American. And don’t even get them started on why the Concorde should still be flying. But even with the large aerospace sector already present, they are not content to rest on their laurels – Northern Ireland in particular is forging ahead in its attempts to play a major role in the space exploration of the future. The excitement and enthusiasm for future engineering and technology is palpable in the circles in which I have wandered, and an incredible reminder of the universal curiosity of the human spirit.

I can’t wait to experience more craziness, to explore more of the map of Belfast, of Northern Ireland and Ireland, and of Europe, and to delve into both my research and the engineering in this city and country. Onward to the next Alabama football game, Lyric Theater play, and EasyJet sale!

Posted in Class of 2014, Queen's University Belfast | Leave a comment