Thanks, Lads

My other reflections centered on my life in Galway, the structure of my days, all those funny little things you learn about a country by living there, and not just visiting.  (Isn’t it amazing that you can get a decent breakfast sandwich at an Irish gas station, for example? Or that candidates up for a national office will come and knock and your door for a nice chat?)  But for my last Mitchell reflection I thought I’d write about, well, the other Mitchells.

I’m the oldest of the Mitchells by a nearly embarrassing amount.  (I got stunned silence when it came up that I was a senior in college on September 11, 2001; the rest of the Mitchells were probably finding their first pimples in a middle school bathroom.)  But the age gap meant nothing; the Mitchell boys really made my year in Ireland.  I haven’t been around people so young, talented and un-jaded in a long time.  They made me think how we lose that eager perspective, that shiny view of life, as we grow older, when thoughts of real estate prices, aging parents, and whether we really should start taking fish oil supplements begin to chip away at our imaginations.  I knew that leaving behind a nicely paid job and cute apartment in New York for Galway would shake me out of old ruts; I didn’t realize how much younger it would make me feel.

Before this year, I’d thought my college days of long, earnest conversations with friends about the world, about life, about love were behind me.  But luckily they were not – in a chip shop in Belfast, the hotel in Cork, the bus in Dublin, at my kitchen table in Galway, the other Mitchells inspired me to think more, to try harder, to experiment more freely.  I’d been so far removed from the college world, and the big ideas of this crop of most recent graduates, that I’d nearly forgotten what it feels like to have your whole life in front of you.  Thank goodness for the Mitchell Scholars, who helped me to remember.

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Gratitude

I have settled back in the United States and am enjoying my work in Washington D.C. as a Fellow at Emerson Collective, an organization that advocates for and invests in the public good.  Ireland seems at times a world away:  it’s hard to believe that I was so far away for so long.  And yet, when I reflect back on the experience, so much of my time there comes rushing back:  it was truly a special time in my life.  I made lifelong friends, enjoyed extraordinary experiences and grew an incredible amount.

Some of my closest friends from the past year were Irish.  They are phenomenal people:  incredibly hard workers who have endured a tumultuous decade on the island; despite the tough times, they have resiliently and optimistically pushed on to bigger and better things. Although we are enduring difficult times here at home, we still take for granted the incredible opportunity available to us in the United States.  On more than one occasion, my Irish friends would remind just how lucky I am to be an American and the benefits and blessings that come from my citizenship.  My Irish friends are great people and I’ve come to admire them a great deal (hello, Colm and Carlsen).

Obviously, my other close friends were the fellow Mitchells.  I’ve spoken about them in previous posts, but suffice to say they are extraordinarily committed and kind.  I will miss our times together in Ireland and pray that we have the opportunity to reunite soon.

The final weeks in Ireland were among the best.  We had the good fortune to dine with Eoin (of size2shoes fame) and his family in Limerick — and what talent!  It was the treat of a lifetime to bathe in their incredible music and kindness.  We also explored Limerick more substantively as a group,  and despite having lived there myself for close to a year, I learned new things about the city and am grateful to have had those experiences.  Sometimes it takes guests to remind you of what is beautiful and valuable about home.  I also enjoyed meeting Ruth, an American from Chicago, who runs a diner in Limerick — the best breakfast in town.

I grew a great deal intellectually because of the inherent independence in my university coursework.  I became a better writer and researcher, and in the process acquired a deeper appreciation of the law and its role in global society.  International law is murky and complex, but important:  I am glad to have wrestled with it.  No matter what I do in the future, I know that I am a better and more knowledgeable thinker because of my experiences in Ireland.

I am very sad that the year is over but am excited for the next class and am eager to hear of their adventures.  They are in for a transformative experience.  I am indebted to the US-Ireland Alliance for all that they’ve done to put together an incredible year for our cohort — thank you.

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The End of A Chapter

When I sit back and think about my year in Ireland, I have a hard time comprehending what a great experience it is to be a Mitchell Scholar.

To begin with, Dublin City University has been a great first stop after graduating from the Naval Academy. Although I certainly missed a few aspects of military life and the camaraderie that comes from living in a military environment, I had a surprisingly good experience with my roommates in Dublin. I got to live with two PhD students, one from Albania, the other a native of Dublin. During the fall we ventured out to the Dingle peninsula and the Cliffs of Moher for a weekend of hiking and relaxing in Ireland’s lush landscape. My favorite aspect of living together was becoming a bit of a family. We shopped and cooked together and all around just enjoyed each others company, whether that involved watching soccer in the evening or going for a walk together in Albert College Park. Although I wish I could continue to live with my roommates into the future as they pursue their PhDs, I know it’s time to move on to the next stage in my life.

When it comes to places to live, Dublin will forever be high up on my list. I am an avid cyclist and I thoroughly enjoyed being able to take my single speed all around town. The defining aspect of my life in Dublin is the connections and friendships that I made at Adelaide Road Presbyterian Church next to St. Stephens Green. The community welcomed me with open arms. The pastor at the church was coming into his own as a cyclist and I often rode to the manse on springtime Tuesdays and Thursdays for relaxing cycles into the Wicklow Mountains or along the coast road up to Bray. I also became close friends with a retired British Army Major who is currently working in Dublin. He and his wife were too kind and had me over for dinner on a weekly basis. There are many great things about Dublin, but what will resound for years to come will be the friends I have made.

One of the biggest blessings of my year in Ireland is the lifelong relationships I now have with each and every one of the Mitchell Scholars. Ryan, Ibrahim, Fagan, Joey, Deirdre, Yongjun, Stephen, and Steven are some of the most impressive, humble, and good-natured people I have ever had the pleasure of getting to know. This group has helped me discover my place in the world. As I reflect on how far our friendships have developed over the past year, I cannot help but believe that this is nowhere near the end of our work together. Each of these individuals have so much to offer to this world and I just hope that as we progress in our lives we will be able to work together towards a better future for our country and for humanity.

This year afforded me the opportunity to get to know all of the island of Ireland as well as many European countries. The list of places I have traveled is long and I will limit my reflection to one experience that I will remember forever. My whole family came out to Ireland to visit me during my year and I planned a week of traveling around the different sites. By far, the family favorite was a hike out to the end of the Cliffs of Moher and the ruins of the Norman Castle at Hag’s Head. We clearly walked right past the “Do Not Enter” sign, but our risk was well worth the reward. The roaring Atlantic relentlessly pounded the cliffs as we watched from a safe height. When we reached the old castle my brothers and I sat down, leaned back against a thousand years of history and admired the vastness of the Atlantic as it met the enormous cliffs below us. I am very thankful for the chance to show my brothers the beauty of the island that became my home.

In May of 2010, I graduated from the Naval Academy, excited and slightly overwhelmed by the awesome responsibility of taking a commission as an officer in the US Navy. My first year as an officer is certainly different from the majority, and nowhere is that more clear to me than in my marriage. My wife is currently serving on a US Navy ship and her service has kept me grounded as to what I am returning to after spending a year in Ireland removed from any sort of military environment. I truly believe that this year abroad will help me bring a thoughtful and global perspective to the service I am about to enter. The next few years for me entail hard work on board submarines, and I am thankful for the opportunity to spend a year in Ireland before entering this world. I know that I will carry the lessons of this year throughout the duration of my military career and into the future.

Most of all, I am utterly thankful to so many people for this incredible experience. I am thankful to the sponsors of this scholarship, thankful to the US-Ireland Alliance, thankful to the people who welcomed me all across the island, and thankful to my fellow Mitchell Scholars who have made this year such a blessing.

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Parting is such sweet sorrow…

I have been back in the United States for a few weeks now, and have found a lot of time to reflect on what an incredible year I had in Ireland. The first question I get from everyone the first time I see them back at home is, “How was Ireland?” And I find myself telling a different story about a different aspect of my experience, so I am taking that as a sign that I had as much fun as one possibly could. I cannot begin to fully describe how incredible my year was. I saw things I never imagined, and had experiences I never thought possible. So thank you so much Trina, Jennie, and everyone involved in the US-Ireland Alliance for providing me the year of my life.

Since we last spoke, I went on a long vacation through Europe to end my year abroad. My classes ended in the beginning of April, so I first flew to London to meet my best friend and see the sights. I went earlier in the year to watch Van Morrison in concert, but this time I spent a little bit more time exploring the city. From there, I returned to Galway to spend a few nights packing up and saying goodbye to all my friends, teammates, and favorite Galway spots. Since returning to the US, most people I talk with about Ireland tell me that they have spent a day or two in Galway sometime during their travels. And we usually agree that Galway is the greatest place in Ireland. The people, music, energy, sights, and feel easily make it my favorite city in Ireland and one of my favorite cities in the world. It is a must see for those that have not been there.

After Galway, I spent a few days in Dublin hanging with fellow Mitchells and getting ready for the next leg of my trip (a big thank you has to go out to Kyle at this point for letting me store my stuff at his house). Next, I headed to Malaga, Spain. The Costa Del Sol is just beautiful, and I really love the Spanish energy (the late night dinners, the focus on health and vitality, and the youthful spirit). After Malaga, I headed to the Canary Islands, which are closer to Africa than they are to Europe. The Canary Islands are paradise on earth. It is all about relaxation there. From there I went to my second favorite city in Europe, Barcelona. I was there during a Champions League match and the city was just bonkers. My traveling companion had a college friend of hers living in Barcelona,  and he was gracious enough to show us all the local hotspots. It was a really great time.

From Barcelona, I went to Sicily. My first order of business was finding a place to do laundry. After a few weeks of traveling, I would have paid anything for clean clothes. Sicily is the origin of some of my favorite types of Italian foods: the rich gravies, lasagna, cheesy eggplants etc. I ate enough to keep me well fed for months and enjoyed every moment of it. Also, although my mother’s family is from Ennis, my father’s family comes from Sicily, so it was very special to get in touch with that side of my family. After Sicily, my trip ended with a four-day bike tour through northwest Sardinia. It was a grueling 60k-a -ay bike trip, but provided some incredibly gorgeous sea views to help pass the hours and make all of the pain worth it.

Since the trip ended, I have been crazy busy. Two of my best friends have gotten married, and I was in one wedding party and performed the other wedding. We then had Mitchell graduation in Dublin. Unfortunately, my flight to Ireland got canceled, so I missed a portion of the weekend. I did make it for the ceremony though, and it was a wonderful event and night. It provided the closure I think we all needed, while letting us know that we are now part of a Mitchell family that will keep us connected forever. I look forward to a lifetime of friendships with my fellow Mitchells, and staying as active as possible in helping the US-Ireland Alliance grow and reach all of its potential.

So I guess our time together has come to an end. But please do not hesitate to get in touch with me. My email address is joegraziano2@gmail.com. I will be staying in Washington DC , working at the World Bank doing anti-corruption work and finishing my last year of law school. I plan on being at as many Alliance events as possible. I hope to see you there.

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What a Feeling

I rode a lot of buses in Ireland, crisscrossing the island many times  (occasionally in other modes of transport). Some people really dislike the sometimes 4+ hour rides along windy, curvy roads, around and over the hills, stopping to drop off and pick up people at seemingly random points along the way—but I always enjoy the journey. I usually spend the entire ride looking out the window at the lush landscape and charming town centers and thinking about the beautiful stories of generations of people who have lived in this remarkable part of the world, and their ongoing connection with it.

Returning home, to America, I find difficulty explaining to friends the profound effect my year in Ireland has had on me. This inexplicable feeling—sigh, what a feeling—is of months of wandering throughout towns and cities, sharing opinions with other people, and riding the bus with simply my thoughts to accompany breathtaking views. Classroom lessons this year made a meaningful impact on how I think about certain issues in our world, surely, but those extra-curricular lessons are the ones I regard as transformative and special.

People are central to the powerful effect of this year. I have had countless interactions and conversations with folks across Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland that all have, in some way, further shaped how I think about some of the most significant matters in my world: good governance and democracy, identity, how best to help our fellow human beings, and the foundations of a good and meaningful life. I thank these anonymous teachers (some in the classroom, most outside of it) for sharing their genuine thoughts and growing along with me, nourished by each other’s ideas, and grounded within the dynamic communities and societies spread across the island.

Beyond the Emerald Isle, exploring places across Europe and meeting the peoples that call these places home has deeply influenced my own identity as an American. I have been blessed to visit so many places, and I am so grateful for the Mitchell Scholarship for encouraging this travel and making it possible—all across the island of Ireland (of course) as well as the Scottish Highlands, London and Oxford, Edinburgh, Madrid, Geneva, Berlin and Potsdam, Amsterdam, Brussels, Paris, Prague, and Vienna! Each city and country has its own fascinating features and nuances, while there is also something very significant in the great similarities of our humanity. Next year, I am heading to Cairo, Egypt, to continue learning from people and communities that are organizing—politically and socially—to create better lives for themselves and future generations.

Multi-dimensional perspectives on the world through travel has made me ever more proud and humbled to call America my home and my nation, especially in the countless ways that the good people of the United States influence the world for the better (to me, Europe leaves much to be desired). As anything, there are negatives (sometimes huge) and shortcomings, and conversely, downplayed achievements. Yet, nowadays, I can see more clearly than ever the roads and challenges ahead, and the ways in which I hope to be part of making our communities, our country, our world, and all the living things that share this existence flourish—with peace, freedom, equality, dignity, and justice for all.

I cannot neglect to mention the power of people once more, in the peers I met through the Mitchell Scholarship program that have affected my life in very distinct ways:

  • Deirdre and Paul have been such a generous duo in countless ways, and role models of ways I want to work to protect justice for all people.
  • Kyle, ever the optimist, has a rare fearlessness in identifying problems in our society (with the classic “explain that to me, it makes no sense!”), and an equally-rare stamina in his ability to continue asking important “why?” questions of both problems and proposed solutions.
  • Fagan, with all the makings of a political leader of the highest caliber, has taught me how to situate problems by asking plenty of questions, mainly the tough ones, and utilize the power of others to find a plan for resolution.
  • Steven is a wonderful and warm human being, and almost immediately, I began to understand the long list of why others trust and follow his leadership into the most difficult of struggles and battles.
  • Stephen has affected how I view the process of change, and combines his exceptional strengths both at the hands-on and political levels to be relentless in the defense of the health and wellbeing of people across the globe, a foundational element of empowering communities.
  • Ryan, always a joy to be around whether in Belfast or Brooklyn (as I’ve already seen him here twice in the past two weeks), motivates me with how much he is able to get out of every day and how effective he is at connecting people to get important work done.
  • Joey is never timid about speaking his mind or speaking with straight-edged honesty, something that may sound simple, but makes an immense difference in exchanging ideas and meeting goals.
  • Yongjun, as he does with so many, inspires with dreams of ways to make the world a better, more egalitarian place, and combines this with a proven praxis of translating hope into reality.

Thank you all for the countless lessons you have all taught me; thank you to the Mitchell Scholarship (and program leaders Jennie and Trina) for your belief in investing in me with this experience; thank you to all my teachers and mentors, both named and unnamed; thank you to my family, friends, and loved ones for bearing the distance; and thank you Ireland for the limitless hospitality and memories.

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The Irish Goodbye

I write this reflection from 37,000 feet above the Atlantic on my final flight home from Ireland. Perhaps it’s because I am in a tin can flying through the air at hundreds of miles per hour, or maybe because I have not slept in 36 hours, but this reflection will not follow the carefully considered, politically conscious, well-measured tone that you likely have come to expect from the Mitchell Scholars.  Rather, this will be the most honest reflection I have posted.  The ins and outs of my experience on the island of Ireland in retrospect and its entirety. The full monty.  Trina and Jennie, don’t panic.

I am honestly thrilled to be going home.  My grandmother is terminally ill, I am excited about my thesis, I miss my nephews, friends, girlfriend, and I am starting medical school in August: the final turn before the finish line I have spent my lifetime working toward.  At the same time, I am filled with sadness.  I will miss the cobbles of Trinity; the sound of the sax players on Grafton at midnight, the cookies from Marks and Spencer; the nights at Café en Seine, Temple Bar, the Quays, and Porterhouse. Gone is the Perfect Pint; the friends I made from far and wide; evensong at St. Patrick’s Cathedral; the barristas at Starbucks and the “samples” they made just for me. I will also miss the freedom of living alone, abroad, and away from familiarity as I return to the South, traffic, and a local cell phone (for which far too many people have the number).

Ultimately, however, the greatest feeling of loss comes from what I feel this experience could have been and was not. The sentiment is admittedly irrational – it is not a matter of what it could have been, but what I built it up in my mind to be. The Mitchell reflections of years past painted a picture of Willy Wonka’s factory filled with wonders and delights at every turn and a magical elevator that lifts you to new heights.  Naively, that is exactly what I expected, but life is not filled with golden eggs and Oompa-Loompas. (Yes, I looked up the spelling.)  It has ups, downs, good and bad.

The world is experiencing the stress of the plates of change, and I found myself falling between those plates this year: undergraduate, medical school, continents on either side of the Atlantic. Ireland elected a new government, my Masters program hired a new course director, Trinity selected a new provost, and the Alliance hired a new program director.  Shifts in leadership can cause instability and uncertainty for those being led, and I can attest that this year was filled with uncertainty. For a recovering middle child, type-A, perfectionist – that is a challenge greater than Everest.

Unfortunately, it is only as I retreat back to the States that I realize this year for what it was. No, it wasn’t perfect – but it was perfectly imperfect. I had my challenges, successes, victories, and failures. This year was my experience for all that it actually was and not what I thought that it was supposed to be.  Ultimately, I gained and experienced far more than I anticipated in even my idealistic fantasy – just in different ways.

I learned an immeasurable amount from the changes that I experienced and I am a different person than when this experience began – with the same Irish hair, skin, eyes, and freckles.  I leave Ireland with great friends that will last a lifetime.  I leave Ireland as part of a community of Scholars with a shared experience of the ups and downs of life in our uniquely individual ways. I leave Ireland with a new professional path and direction to my career that I might never have discovered elsewhere. I have an inspired and heightened fervor to act for better health and quality of life around the world. My relationships are stronger, my convictions are deeper, and my perspective is broader because of my time in Ireland. My tastebuds are also spoiled by the taste of fresh Guinness. I have a deeper understanding of my ancestors, who left County Cork for new opportunity. I have a greater, vested interest in the future and success of the island of Ireland and its people.

With profound appreciation for the U.S.-Ireland Alliance, the U.S. Government, the Irish Government, Trina Vargo, and Jennie LaMonte for making this perfectly imperfect experience and its contribution to my fabric possible, I bid farewell to Ireland, Dublin, Trinity, and Temple Bar until we meet again.

Stephen

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Spring Fever in Belfast and Abroad

Belfast is a constantly buzzing city with one event or another no matter what time of year. And while feeling somewhat disconnected from it these past two months with lots of travel with fellow Scholars, the news followed wherever I went. Some recent events:

1. The murder of Constable Ronan Kerr

In an event that was shocking for most everyone in Northern Ireland, a Catholic Constable of the Police Service of Northern Ireland (PSNI) was killed when dissidents Republicans set off a bomb that was wired to his car at his home in Omagh.  Until this killing, targeted killings were seen as a thing of the past.   For students in the School of Politics at QUB, it was a wake up call to discuss the politics and policies of policing in Northern Ireland.

Ronan Kerr was 25 years old. He came of age to join the PSNI under one of the hallmark policies that arose from the 1998 peace accord, the Good Friday Agreement, namely the decision to recruit more Catholics into the police force. During the Troubles, over 90% of police were Protestants.  This caused distrust among Catholics who viewed the police force as biased at best.

So after the peace accord, a commission established to review and revise policing practices recommend that the newly constituted PSNI recruit an even number of Catholics and Protestants for a period of at least 10 years (effectively Spring 2001 to Spring 2011) to raise the Catholic proportion of the police force from approximately 8% to 30%. Just before Ronan Kerr’s death, it was made known that the Catholic proportion had reached over 29% and that the policy, in effect for ten years, had accomplished its goal and should be ended. A few days later, Republican dissidents affiliated targeted Kerr, one of the Catholics who joined the PSNI through the 50-50 recruitment policy.  This is an unfortunate incident, which the vast majority have condemned.

The best discussions I’ve had with friends and colleagues don’t happen in any classroom, they happen in pubs and coffee shops all across Belfast. My advice to any American who reads this, interested in studying in Belfast, and any future Mitchell Scholars who are coming to Northern Ireland – go out of your way to make friends with people at pubs and coffee shops and outside the classroom who you wouldn’t ordinarily associate with. They’re tremendous portals into the rich history and people of Northern Ireland. All too often we fail to connect with people outside of our courses, and thus we miss better understanding where we are. Yes, you should read this as go to pubs, order a drink and chat up the person next to you.

2. Elections

The elections in Northern Ireland also (unsurprisingly) held my interest for some time. I even had the chance to volunteer for one of the Alliance Party’s newest councilors, Conrad Dixon. Thanks to former scholar Ty Dillard from the ’09 Mitchell class, I met and helped Conrad for a short while (though not nearly as long as I wanted to) on his campaign in Craigavon. This election was the first election since the initial, post-Good Friday Agreement, Assembly   In fact, this was the first four-year period in decades of stable governance in Northern Ireland, a true milestone for the state.

I write “state” for even after eight months here, I’m still unsure what the right word is to refer to the six counties of Ulster that comprise Northern Ireland. It is still a part of Britain but with unique properties, such as the free ability of each citizen of Northern Ireland to choose to affiliate as an Irish or a British citizen, a rare choice of national identities that is validated through passport choice.

The elections were great fun to watch and read about, especially as the Mitchell Scholars as a group had the opportunity to meet with the well-known Deputy First Minister Martin McGuinness and the staff of First Minister Peter Robinson. At the time we meet with them in late February, they were knee-deep in hammering out budget deals.

I can only wonder as to what the next four years will politically bring to Northern Ireland. Sinn Fein and the Democratic Unionist Party, the two major parties in the seven-party hodgepodge that comprises the Northern Ireland Assembly (and the political landscape for all other elections) made further gains in the recent elections. The middle-of-the-road parties that still hover on either side of the old divide, SDLP and UUP, both lost seats, and the progressive, centrist, non-sectarian Alliance Party made gains. So, I’d like four years of funding to watch what happens next… and of course study… please?

3. Brussels, Paris, Barcelona, and Newcastle

For anyone reading the Mitchell blogs, you’ve got to give it up to Kyle Krieger, the world traveler of the Mitchells. Kyle has traveled the world I think. He was my inspiration to do the little traveling I did. (When you’ve got a great partner from Northern Ireland who can unlock parts of Belfast to you that books and Queen’s U can’t, no reason to leave until you’ve explored your own backyard). Kyle led the charge to Paris at the end of March. But just before that, a sister/rival city of Paris was visited by the Mitchells, and that was Brussels.

Of all the Mitchell-related events and happenings this year, Brussels was by far the best and most instructive. The Irish diplomats who took care of us were fantastic and some of the most welcoming hosts I’ve ever encountered. Barry Tumelty hosted me and, truly Barry I’m so sorry for this, tried to explain the European Union (EU) to me late at night. The poor welcomes me to his place on the night I arrive from Dublin at 10:30 PM only to be peppered by me about the structure of the EU, the European Commission, and a whole range of other things. Barry spent a good hour explaining, and then lent me a law textbook on the matter I should have followed Barry’s advice from the get-go: you’ll figure it out with enough time.

Fortunately, the speakers that were lined up for us by foreign officer Ciara O Floinn were perfect for doing just that. By the end of three days, I had a better understanding of the trinity at the heart of EU governance, the role of the heads of state, and many other smaller bodies associated with the EU.  For the first time I can actually began to understand the system of governance that exists just across the Atlantic.

And I would be remiss if I didn’t at least say publicly Thank You to America’s Ambassador to the EU, Bill Kennard. A man whose work I was familiar with thanks to his years in government service, he graciously hosted a two hour lunch with the Mitchells and opened up on his own journey through public service and other topics that us enthralled. His candor and personal warmth were unmatched by any person of his rank I’ve recently encountered.

Paris. What can be said but with Kyle at the helm and Ibrahim helping him plan several journeys, we owned Paris for a weekend. Yongjun, Ibrahim, Kyle and I took to the streets of the city, attempted to storm the Bastille (didn’t really get to happen thanks to its not quite existing anymore in the same way), shopped on Boulevard Haussmann, gawked at and mocked the Mona Lisa (at least I did), experienced the Eiffel Tower’s beautiful lighting at night, and of course visited Versailles. I wish we could buy Versailles for the Mitchell Scholarship’s summer home!

Visiting Paris was rewarding not simply for itself but because of the company. Perhaps the strongest point for supporting the Mitchell Scholarship I can think of is the fellowship it creates amongst scholars, , and the effects that fellowship may possibly have decades down the road for the US, its domestic needs, and its foreign relations (and its continuing relations with the island of Ireland). This is hardly an idealistic sentiment. The same thing can be said of different fellowships supported by the US, such as the Truman Scholarship.

Next time I’ll summarize all the things he’s helped me uncover about Belfast, the political movements of the Troubles, and the need for a closer look at the ordinary in the neighborhoods of the second largest city on the island of Ireland.

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The Irish Spring

I love the Irish spring. DCU is located right next to the blooming Albert College Park and I spend a lot of my free time jogging through the open fields past multicolored roses and young boys playing hurling. During the long evenings I bring my guitar out to the park and strum until the sun sets. It is in days like these that I am most relaxed and at peace.

The Irish spring settles around 55 degrees. My fitness has increased radically over the past few weeks as I spend long afternoons lost on my bicycle pedaling from Catholic church to church and village to village. Some churches have no roof but the stones remain. The Celtic gravestones are withered by acid rain and time. But mostly its just wide open fields, meandering creeks, and rusty tractors. Friendly old men guide me back to Dublin. Towns like Garristown, Naul, Bray, Enniskerry, and Malahide are a few of my favorites.

One of the best weekends this spring was a trip up to Derry/Londonderry to be with Ibrahim. It is a quaint town – like Ithaca, New York or Birmingham, Alabama. Ibrahim showed me a furniture store which was car-bombed a few months ago just a quarter mile from his apartment. The building remained but its broken windows, burnt couches, and falling ceiling were wrapped in yellow “Do Not Enter” tape.

We met a man named Gerry on Saturday for a tour of the Bogside, a Catholic neighborhood of Derry. His face was overly wrinkled and his eyebrows were round and bushy. Gerry had been jailed four separate times during the Troubles for possession of M-16s and AK-47s, yet he still denies being in the IRA. During one of Gerry’s years out of prison, his brother was jailed for similar reasons and went on Hunger Strike to protest the British government’s labeling of “criminal” rather that “political prisoner.” Gerry watched his mother break down as his brother withered away in prison. Fortunately he survived. Gerry’s last remark to us was that his only wish is for Margaret Thatcher to die a slow and painful death like the one his unfortunate friends went through.

During Holy week I spent my evenings at Adelaide Road Presbyterian Church listening to lectures from a Belfast man on Luke 22 and 23. This community has welcomed me, and I spent Sundays afternoons at the Pastor’s manse playing cricket with his three boys. It’s funny how sports unite and divide. Protestants play cricket, Catholics hurling or Gaelic football. Some walls appear taller than others.

Spending a year at DCU studying has been a real joy. The classes are great, and the professors care a great deal about each individual experience.  However, the best part has been my community of friends. A few of the guys in my program and I organized a trip to Israel this spring; we were able to observe tensions of this conflict with our own eyes in addition to our work in the classroom. The social culmination of our year together was the DCU School of Law and Government soccer tournament. Although our team was easily able to handle the staff, beating them 4 to 1, we had a harder time with some of the undergrads who are studying on soccer scholarships.

One of the best aspects of my year in Ireland has been the focus and patience it has given me. I am less stressed and do not get worked up about small issues. I am able to see the big picture in my own life, and in international events. I am not sure where exactly I am headed other than underwater on a submarine, but I do know that wherever I go I will be more effective in what I set out to do.

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When the sun goes down o’er Dublin town

The transformation from winter to spring in Ireland is unlike any seasonal change I have experienced.  When I left Dublin in March for a respite at home in the States, I left gray skies, damp air, and chilling cold.  When I returned, the contrast was unbelievable – sunny skies, weather in the 60s, a light breeze, and practically no rain.  The Pav was packed with students spilling out into the lawn almost every afternoon.  People in shops were in good moods.  I could walk around without a sweater for the first time since September.  If I didn’t know any better, I’d think I had come back to a different country. Spring in Georgia lasts about two days, but Ireland has been blessed with an extended springtime following its snow-filled winter.  The sun hangs in the sky until nearly 9 pm.  Every day, couples are playing tennis, students are setting up croquet on the lawn, and busloads of French tourists are sunbathing in front square.

But not me.  I am inside the 1937 Postgraduate Reading Room writing my dissertation. By writing, I mean still researching, but it makes me feel better to say that I’m writing.  I am exploring the way that the United States Government justifies engagement in foreign policy for global health.  Having studied public health and microbiology at the University of Georgia, it is safe to say I am stretching myself to new limits with this endeavor.  I love it, though, and it brings me closer toward my goal of working to bridge policy and practice to improve health around the world.

When not writing my dissertation, I’ve taken to running along the Grand Canal in the afternoons.  Reading Faulkner and the JFK biography An Unfinished Life by Robert Dallek has occupied a considerable amount of time recently.  I also had a few days’ distraction thanks to a visit from my friend Cullen.  I showed him the sites in Dublin – his favorite probably being Lansdowne road and Aviva stadium.  We also enjoyed Kilmainham Gaol (kill-may-numb  jail) and all of its history.  A surprising number of movies were filmed there.  Or as the Irish would say it, many fill-ems were fill-emed there.

This brings me to an important lesson that the class of 2012 needs to learn before they arrive: Irish language.  I’m not talking about Gaelic – I’m referring to the Irish-English vernacular.  There are the standard differences that most Americans would expect from traditional “British” English.  The car trunk is a called the boot; the hood, the bonnet; an eraser, a rubber.  Those are easy enough.  Surprisingly, what will really throw you off the most are snack foods.  So, you want some potato chips with your sandwich? Better ask for crisps.  Irish chips are French fries, but not skinny French fries – more like American steak fries.  American biscuits are scones, but scones are scones as well.  (I’m still not quite sure where to draw the distinction there.)  Irish buns are American cupcakes.  I somehow don’t see “Georgetown Buns” being a success.  Never fear – the easiest way to get it all sorted is to head down to the store and check it out for yourself, but beware that it is not a store, it’s a “shop”.  Who would’ve thought I’d have trouble ordering at Starbucks in an English speaking country?

On a much more serious note, this week President Obama announced that U.S. Navy SEALS successfully infiltrated a compound in Pakistan and killed Osama bin Laden.  I first learned of the mission when I awoke Monday morning to elated text messages from home.  Soon, my Facebook news feed was filled with status updates and photos of celebrations in the streets in the USA.  This was undoubtedly a momentous occasion.

I was 13 and in eighth grade on September 11, 2001 and in the aftermath of that day, Osama bin Laden became the ‘boogeyman of the 9/11 generation’, according to CNN. I’d say CNN was pretty accurate – he was the face behind the terror that marked the turning point in our lives. Because of him, our generation is more politically engaged, and engaged in general. We are more patriotic, more aware, and in many ways more fearful as well. The death of bin Laden on May 1, 2011 was the fulfillment of promises made a decade ago to a generation of grade school students. At the age of 23, I now understand that bin Laden’s death does not mark the end of terrorism. It does not bring promises of peace and prosperity for the decade ahead, and it does not give closure to the thousands of families who lost loved ones on September 11th.  But for many of us, it does bring fulfillment of a promise and a renewal of pride. It sends a message to us and the world that you can’t kill thousands of American citizens and get away with it.  I think the celebrations in the States, however appropriate or inappropriate they may have been, were representative of that fact.  In a way, I am disappointed I missed them, but observing the events from Ireland and experiencing Europeans’ shared joy in closing that chapter of the war on terror has been an invaluable lesson in international relations.

I have roughly one month left in Ireland, and although I am looking forward to moving home and beginning medical school, I will miss this place.  I have made incredible friends that will last a lifetime.  As soon as I step foot in Atlanta, I am sure I will be anxious to return to Dublin to visit them and drink a quality-controlled Guinness. Until then, we will continue arguing about American foreign policy, and they’ll keep teaching me how to speak English “properly”.  Admittedly, however, I may never understand the difference between a biscuit “scone” and a scone.  Obviously I would not like a cookie with my eggs.

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Humour and Solitude

I will long remember my time in Ireland—no, in Derry, specifically—by the geniality of people and palatable genuineness in our interactions. I learned very quickly that dry or sarcastic humour is often taken as quite rude (and I hope to keep the habit of removing it from my life going forward!). A checkout worker at the supermarket will take interest in knowing what I think of Derry, share with me a little “background” gossip on the goings-on and rumors at the supermarket, and be very happy to give me an honest opinion or advice about anything I might ask. Salespeople at stores seem more committed to giving an honest appraisal of how an item (e.g., clothing) would look on me, rather than make a sale (I can only speculate on this nuanced cultural difference in the retail business, where I worked for several years, back home). Most conversations with ordinary local folks, at the theatre, pub, park, or sidewalk, are hilarious and light, full of laughs and a deep friendliness without hidden motives—we are to simply enjoy each other’s company and will likely not meet again (or remember one another).

Derry, as a city and a society, is unique—for whatever reasons, shaped by its tumultuous history to produce a way of life that emphasizes certain elements. Variations on human trust, guarded optimism, and sharing one’s strong opinions stand out to me. So, too, does humour as a powerful vehicle to deal with tense situations.

Depending on how you regard these things, ‘tense situations’ could characterize many—most?—days in Derry. One just needs to turn on the radio to hear never-ending news about terrorism risks, angry dissident groups, and imminent attacks. The discourse is constantly framed around uncertainty, yet local folks take pride in proclaiming a lack of fear and a commitment to having their lives go on as normal. Even so, I cannot imagine parents escape from worry, perhaps kept within and not spoken aloud, about the daily threats that cloud their hopes of ‘normality’ (what is normal, anyways?).

Vocalizing these sentiments regarding a society, especially with my SEVERELY LIMITED outsider experiences, is not something my words can do any justice. It is obviously very difficult to express emotions, attitudes, and atmospheres of a large, complex society—so many of these understandings remain in the area between my head and heart, trapped by the bottleneck of my tongue.

One of the most meaningful things I was able to attend, however, was a stand-up comedy show at the Millennium Forum here in Derry on Easter Sunday! The show, Give My Head Peace, was specifically about politics, conflict, and other contentious aspects of daily life in Northern Ireland. Talk about a certain difficulty in expressing emotions and attitudes to a large, multi-sectarian background! But the show was absolutely brilliant, the crowd was kept laughing for hours. Humour really did have a powerful impact to “poke” at the issues here in Ulster, on all sides of the table. Some of the more tame jokes, as 80% were not suitable for reproduction on this blog:

“How many Derry women does it take to screw in a lightbulb?”
“None, they arrange a support group to deal with the darkness.”

“How many Derry men does it take to screw in a lightbulb?”
“None, they have their mammies do it for them.”

“How many Derry police officers does it take to screw in a lightbulb?”
“None, they hold their positions and call for backup.”

…I think you had to be there to hear these jokes—the crowd was rolling with laughter. The show was another invaluable look at the complex fabric of society here in Northern Ireland. Laughing at these serious issues of violence, fear, and cultural marginalization one studies in the classroom, sacrilegious?! Not really—it is realistic, and it is human. Moreover, I think people largely felt relief to laugh at these serious issues, so it could even be called therapeutic.

I can appreciate the importance of disengaging from the serious troubles of the world, and finding the ways and times to laugh and understand the world through a simpler lens. I found myself, a couple months ago, spending hours of every day reading news story after news story from both Ireland and the Middle East (and around other places in the world) that really got me feeling gloomy and upset. It became harder to focus on my schoolwork, and at times, I felt exhausted.

I decided sometime in March that for my own sake, I needed to disengage from reading these world news stories for some time. Immediately, I tightly regulated what I viewed on my computer; first I only read the news once per evening, then not at all. The ongoing events were happening at a time already of personal transition for me, and were making a further impact on my thoughts about what I wanted to do in life. I needed time to think, I needed freedom from the emotional burden of staying connected with the news and much of the outside world. I sought the freedom that can only be afforded by solitude and reflection.

That is where I have been for the past couple of months. I have not been doing much meditation on a grassy hill, though. I have been busy outside of philosophical thought: I have been working on a few hobbies and projects, and joined the Mitchell group for an enjoyable trip to/around Belfast, another to Brussels, and a smaller group of us went to Paris—and loved all of these trips! Daily, I have set goals for myself of things I want to do: read a certain amount, watch a documentary, write a certain amount, practice Arabic, and make plans for the future. It feels great making a list for the day and meeting those goals. And lately, I’ve been easing back to reading these news stories to attain a personal balance that works for where I am at right now.

Solitude gets a bad rap, I think. It seems to imply some sort of depression, but that has not been my experience and it is quite distinct from loneliness. I hope I have not scared friends telling them I have been enjoying solitude; I very much think of it as a positive, and remember being touched when reading about President Obama in Dreams from my Father who spent several YEARS in a monk-like state. He felt the need to reconcile his place in the world, as do I.

From these past couple of months, I think I have learned an important lesson, albeit inconclusive, about the dangers of hyper-connection to one’s social sphere. It could certainly happen in the old days in one’s community, sure, but now this hyper-connection connects us to an indigestible number of events thousands of miles away. Increasing ease of communication multiplies the danger of neglecting a certain personal privacy, contemplation, and search for purpose and direction.

I believe that reflection is necessary to make meaning of events and connections, and in turn, that process sometimes requires a certain [temporary] disconnect from rapidly unfolding stories and everyday human niceties, to attain a calm state of mind that can grasp at deeper meaning. That is my spirituality and my solitude, and I find it a liberating pursuit.

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Spring

Spring has arrived. After a long and dreary winter, the clouds have parted, the rain has ceased, and the sun finally shines. And, what a beautiful spring it is! Students have taken to Limerick’s many green fields to play sports, to enjoy a summer picnic, and to relish the company of peers. The enthusiasm is on clear display on all faces throughout campus. Paroled from our long, winter imprisonment in the campus library, we are more than ready for a little fun in the sun.

For me, spring has brought more travel and more importantly, clarity of mind. After a remarkable trip to the EU in Brussels, I have a keener sense and a deeper appreciation of Europe’s governing institutions and its political process. For all the criticism surrounding the supranational structure’s purported ineffectiveness, the EU does an admirable job governing the continent across several policy areas. The technical expertise wielded by the staff and the passion of all of the officials working in the EU was vibrantly on display throughout our visit: these people care about Europe, its future and its leadership in the world. While there are many challenges ahead, especially in light of recent events in the Middle East, I have every confidence that the impressive team assembled in Brussels is up to the job. I also want to take this opportunity to thank those who so graciously hosted and supported all of us during our stay in Belgium: thank you!!! What a wonderful time.

I have also enjoyed more travel in Ireland. A few close friends from the United States joined me in Ireland, and we spent time enjoying the big city (shout out to Dublin and our good Mitchell friends there: YJ, Steven and Heather – all of whom so graciously hosted us) and the surrounding countryside. Dublin is amazing!! I have spent most of my time this year in Limerick (a two hour train ride from Dublin), and it was so refreshing to enjoy Dublin, an incredibly traditional yet cosmopolitan city. The food, the people, the pubs, and the music are extraordinary.

The surrounding countryside is equally impressive, if only in a different way. Lahinch and Ennis (where we ended up spending most of our time) are stunning places, full of natural beauty. Until visiting Lahinch, I was ignorant of the fact that people actually surf in Ireland (I know, who knew?)! How cool is that! While the water is freezing, wet suits ensure a good time for all, and the beaches afford a spectacular view. The pubs in the smaller towns, like Lahinch and Ennis, are also really fascinating. They differ somewhat from the pubs found in larger cities, as each small-town pub is truly unique in its character and feel. It’s hard to believe that many of these institutions have been in these communities for decades, often staffed by the same family.

Lastly, I am starting to achieve clarity on my thesis topic, which will focus on how criminal justice systems can help drive social change in a globalized and increasingly complex world. Limerick is the ideal place in which to pose and answer this question. While Limerick is infamously known as the “crime capital” of Europe, there is so much terrific work being done at a grassroots level in the City’s communities as well as its criminal justice system. I look forward to conducting research at this intersection and will report out in my next update.

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“Oh! The Places You’ll Go”

The other day, I took my camera into the fire station with me because I had not taken any pictures all year with the guys on “D” watch, but then everybody kept asking me if it was my last day. My response was a quick no, but then I started to realize, though it may not be my last day, our time in Ireland is quickly drawing to a close. Fortunately that time had not come yet! Not only do we have another two months here on the Emerald Isle, but we have had months worth of experiences which I will remember for years to come. I guess I may as well start where I left off at the end of January.

Luckily, after the month of January, most of the snow that had taken this country by surprise had melted away. The temperatures continued to be rather cold, but it was nice to have the country back up and running as it had before the snowfall. Plus, having the sunshine around made for a pleasant atmosphere in my mind.

Once I turned in the remainder of my assignments from the previous semester in January, Heather and I started to plan out the next semester’s plans, goals, etc. Looking over what we had done the last semester, we realized that, for a variety of different reasons, most of our traveling had focused on the west coast of Ireland. We needed to throw in a little bit of variety.

Traveling to the north

That variety first came in the form of the Mitchell’s mid-year retreat to Belfast. Over the course of our time here in Ireland we, of course, had heard a great deal about the 1916 Rising, the War of Independence, and the separation of the six counties from the rest of Ireland. We had also heard a great deal about the Troubles, the divisions within the Northern Ireland society, and the divisions that continue to exist today. Certainly coming to Ireland by means of a scholarship named to honor George J. Mitchell, the man who proved instrumental in bring about the 1998 Good Friday Agreement, sparked a great deal of interest in Northern Ireland, but I do not think I was prepared to experience that environment first hand, which I think is best demonstrated by our tour of the murals.

The last day of the weekend in Belfast, we hopped onto a bus for a tour of the city’s many murals. On our second visit to Belfast, Heather made an interesting observation about the murals, commenting that they seemed to be more telling a story and existing feelings of their heros and martyrs than showing progress in the peace process and closure to years of violence. I think in many ways, for me, I would have to agree because of how the murals look within the context of a still divided community.

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Mural depicting feminine aspect of the conflict

You might get a degree of remembrence and reflection on what took place in the past, but to me it highlights tensions that still lingers.

The Wall

This wall, and many others like it, remain in existence today. Though the peace process has come a long way in creating solutions, greater than 90% of the people here remain divided.

During our visit to the US Consulate, a Northern Irish man similar in age to us, made the comment that during his teenage years he still had to worry about what part of town he came from; what school uniform he wore; what football team he supported. The country has come a long way from the dark days of the Troubles, much of the tension and emotions seem to remain forged in people’s memories and perspectives. Though it is hard to determine what fueled the act, we experienced our own brush with some of those emotions as some kids decided to egg our couch. Our driver came over the intercom afterwards and, with a somber yet humorous confidence said that twenty years ago, those eggs would have been bricks. Just incredible!

Other school uniform- notice different color

The differences in school uniforms (shown by the picture here and below), to many, serve as an indication of what part of town your from; whether your Catholic or Protestant; basically what side you are on.

One school uniform - notice color

One of the other types of murals that we came across were those memorializing the Troubles. I went ahead and put up a couple of pictures which I thought were interesting.

This mural was particularly interesting as it compared those that had fought and died in the Battle of the Somme.

Our trip was not all exploring the country’s troubled past, and we took time to explore yet another naturally beautiful part of the island. One of the highlights was walking along the cliffs which over look the infamous Giant’s Causeway. These trips do provide a great opportunity for us to develop the bonds of friendship that I think will last many years beyond our time in Ireland. It did start to rain, but at this point, I have become quite used to the sky opening up on us, and we even saw a double rainbow!

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I really had a great time in Belfast and learned even more about the area’s history,  and the problems that still challenge the peace process.

Traveling out side the country

Though it wasn’t one of the official Mitchell Scholarship retreats, our next trip was one to Brussels. We had the opportunity here to learn about and explore many different organizations and people associated with the European Union. One of the best things about the trip is that Heather was able to come with us! We had a great time and learned a great deal. One of the challenges that I have a much greater appreciation for is the decision making process within the EU. Within a country’s own political process, divides between groups and views always exists. Considering that these types of divisions exist with all countries, one can imagine how difficult it would be make a decision which requires the consent of 27 different sovereign nations.

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I would be remiss, and I am sorry that I do not have a photograph, if I did not mention the wonderful McBean family who generously provided a room for us while we were there. We truly enjoyed getting to know and spend time with the family. We even had the great opportunity to teach them the amazingly addictive game of Monopoly Deal!

Closer to home!

Its always humorous when talking to people about their travels and, many times, we forget to explore and learn about the areas right around where we live. For Heather and me, that area was around Maynooth and to Northern Ireland. Certainly we had been to Dublin a countless number of times, but we hadn’t done any touring. So, we decided that we would make traveling around Dublin and the surrounding areas a priority for us.

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When we had some family and friends come and visit us, we jumped on the opportunity to explore our neck of the woods even further. We decided to take a walking tour of Dublin, which highlighted some of the many interesting features of Dublin that we had missed in our day to day hustle and bustle. Just look below!

Starr Klube, my fifth grade teacher, and I walking around Dubiln!

I knew the vikings had inhabited this part of the island, but here, in the middle of downtown Dublin, we were able to get an image of what their houses looked like.

I think, as you can tell from all the above pictures and experiences, the theme for this semester has certainly been traveling the country and immersing ourselves even deeper into Irish culture. We may be almost through with our time in Ireland, but there is still so much more to experience and see!

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